DESERT/ARIZONA-MEXICO HUNTING GEAR LIST

Each season I am asked by many hunters which brand or type of a certain item I recommend. As with anything, it is important to buy the highest quality equipment that you can afford. This eliminates having to purchase that item again or more often than you would like. I also strongly recommend buying items of minimal weight. This cuts back on fatigue while in the field, allowing you to go that extra mile.

Binoculars – If you are to own one set of binoculars, the 10X42 would be the best all-around size. Binocular sizes that work well for open country hunts (such as coues, mule deer, antelope, bear, sheep) would be: 10X42, 12X50 or 15X56. For forest hunts (such as archery elk and turkey): 8X30, 10X32, or 10X42. Swarovski, and Leica are superior European glasses that bring in much light and detail. I highly recommend them. If you don’t want to spend $1200-$3200 on a pair of these fine European optics, the higher end models of Vortex are great binoculars.

Riflescope – European optics companies produce great binoculars, but my recommended riflescope is the Great Ol’ American brand Leupold. The reason is due to their ability to take a beating! I have seen Leupolds take a tumble down a mountain, end-over-end, after which the hunter picks up the weapon to kill an animal at nearly 500 yards! These are tough scopes and will usually not lose zero with a bad mishap. I have witnessed this event with every other brand, even the $2500 European scopes, and cannot say the same for them. Variable power settings are a must. A 4-12X is minimum. A 3-9X is only good for javelina, cow or muzzleloader hunts when shooting distance are typically closer than 250 yards, but it is too small for big canyon hunting of any other species. If you have ever looked at an animal over 250 yards on 9 power, you know what I mean. Leupold Model Vari-X III in 6.5-20X or 4.5-14X will suit your needs for any species at any distance. If you are coming on a bighorn sheep, coues or bear hunt, go with a 40mm objective to save weight in this rougher terrain.

Bipod – It is highly recommended that you mount a bipod on your rifle. Don’t skimp and buy an “off the wall” brand thinking they are all the same. I have used most bipods on the market. Most cheap brands come apart after a few uses in the rugged mountains or are designed poorly causing wobble.

Sleeping Bag -Sleeping bags come in all shapes and sizes but what is important is the thermal rating and compactness (packing in your luggage for the plane). Cold month hunts in November through April may be spent in wall tents. Outside nighttime temperatures may get as low as 10 degrees, with inside tent temperatures around 50 with the heater on. If the heater goes out in the middle of the night (and it more than likely will), you need to be prepared. I recommend a 20 degree rating for those cold weather hunts. During mild weather hunts in August through October, I recommend a 40-50 degree rating. Slumberjack, Eureka, and REI have a line of compact sleeping bags at various temperature ratings that fit nicely into your luggage. Also, don’t forget a small travel pillow or Coleman camp pillow. These stuff into a sack to save room for luggage packing.

Beanie – A beanie is great for keeping your head warm while sleeping during cold weather hunts. It eliminates the need to bury your head under your sleeping bag and it actually keeps your whole body warmer while sleeping.

Tweezers – Every plant in the desert can either poke, stick or jab you, often leaving stickers and thorns throughout your body. Tweezers are essential in getting these thorns out if they happen to occur, especially the fine cactus needles. It seems like the most favorable activity for our hunters during downtime is to sit around camp and pull out thorns…

Blisters – For those who are prone to blisters, mole skin is a great remedy. Also, the small pads for corns and callous by Dr. Scholl’s work well around blisters too. There are also gel-type blister bandages on the market. Many hunters have quit hunting or gone home early because of severe blisters.

Daypack – Most hunters come with packs too small…. One reason to have a good-sized pack is to handle all the layers of clothing that you will be peeling off during the day. Remember that mornings are often 35-40 degrees cooler than noontime temps, which means you will be layering. Another reason to have a decent pack is that, if you tag an animal, you will need to take the guide’s gear in your pack (and they have a lot of stuff) as he packs out the game. If it is a large animal such as a bear or elk, you will need to help pack out the game. You do not need a giant backpack, but a good daypack with a waste strap for putting the weight above the hips and not all on the shoulders is best. You should have a mid-sized pack with a capacity around 2000 – 3000cu-in.

Water Transport – As many as three-hundred people die in the desert per year due to severe dehydration. Having enough water in your pack is very important in this arid environment, especially after the kill. Once you kill, you just doubled or even tripled your water requirement in order to help pack out the extra weight. THIS IS THE DESERT! There are no streams to drink from if you are out of water. If coming during our August through October hunts, two liters should be taken into the field at all times, even if you don’t think you need it. I don’t mean two little drinking water bottles that you buy in the case, but two LITERS. Camelback, Platypus, or Dromedary Bladders work well, but make sure you rinse out the bad, plastic taste from newly purchased bladders. The humidity in Arizona and Southern New Mexico is typically 5%, which can dry you out in minutes! Some don’t even know they are dehydrated until it’s too late. If you are worried about the added weight of water, try to shave off a few pounds elsewhere.

Hiking Boots – Most AZ and NM terrain is very rocky. Get a boot with good ankle support and deep traction lugs.

Hiking Socks – A good pair of wool blend socks, whether hunting in the hot month of September or the cold of January, is essential to keeping your feet from being too moist and helps to eliminate blisters. Please, for the sake of the other hunters in your tent, bring one pair per day!

Walking Stick or Trekking Pole – A walking stick or trekking pole will help to stabilize you on the loose ground or steep slopes. Most models are compact, lightweight and telescopic, folding down to around 25″. Make sure to use the rubber tip, as the metal tip clanking on the ground scares game on a regular basis. Some hiking sticks have a V-yoke to act as a shooting stick. This can be a very useful tool when getting a “surprise” offhand shot.

Clothing – There are many brands on the market, but what is important is the material they are made of. High performance hunting clothing is not 100% Cotton. Try a polyester/cotton blend or, better yet, a 100% poly material.

Camouflage Pattern – The Camo pattern to bring depends upon which type of hunt you will be on; either a desert hunt or a forest hunt. Desert hunts such as bighorn sheep, bear, deer, javelina, and antelope require lighter camo patterns like Natural Gear, Mossy Oak Brush, King’s Desert Shadow, or Sitka Gear’s Optifade Open Country. Most colors in the desert during hunting season are light shades of gray/brown. Stay away from the really bright “prairie” patterns though. You’ll stand out like a sore thumb using the prairie patterns. Forest hunts such as Elk and Turkey require darker camo patterns like Mossy Oak New Break-Up or Real Tree AP and even Kuiu Verde.

Portable Field Seat Cushion – This may not sound too important, but when you are glassing and sitting on a cold, jagged boulder for hours, it is invaluable. The comfort a foam pad brings will help you be more patient. Make sure it is not too big or it will be cumbersome to carry in or on your pack. Try Hunter’s Specialties Bunsaver brand. Don’t bring a field chair unless you don’t mind carrying the added weight or bulk.

12-Volt Vehicle Cell Phone Charger – If you really need to use and re-charge your cell during the hunt, please bring a 12-volt vehicle cell phone charger (cigarette lighter plug). The guides will let you plug into their vehicle when you need charging. I recommend turning off your cell phone until you need to make a call. We don’t hunt near towers and typically have poor reception. If you keep the phone on during the daytime, it will search for a tower, thus, drain your battery within hours. Note: some areas we hunt have no cell phone service. The Gila National Forest has no service. If hunting in NM and contact with the outside world is important to you, I recommend renting a satellite phone for your personal use.

Rifle Caliber Selection – Basically, choose a caliber that you can handle and shoot accurately without flinching. If that means getting a muzzlebrake installed, than that is what you need to do. We all know hunters that use big magnums, but miss everything they shoot at because they flinch and are afraid of the gun. Again, a muzzlebrake will do wonders! For hunters that like to use different calibers for different species, here is a range of calibers to use for each species: Javelina – .243, up to .30-06; Coues and Mule Deer, Sheep, Antelope – .25-06 up to .300 Magnum; Bull Elk and Bear- 7mm Magnum up to .338 Magnum. If I were use one cartridge for all rifle hunting, it would be either one of the .300 Magnums or Short Magnums. These cartridges can be loaded and used for all North American big game species from a 45 pound javelina to a 2500 pound bull bison. They are also superior for long range shooting in high winds across canyons. Another important point that I must mention is that you should have a weapon that is as lightweight as possible. Rifles with heavy varmint or target barrels might be nice from a bench or while prairie dog shooting, but the mountains of the Southwest are no place for a heavy gun!

Ammunition – Just like anything, don’t buy the cheapest ammo. Good loaded rifle ammo usually costs over $50.00 per box. The more expensive Federal Premiums, Remington Premier or Winchester Supreme loaded ammunitions are very accurate and precise. I recommend a bullet with a high ballistic coefficient. More than likely, you will not get any close shots in this open country anyway! Important: sight in with the ammo you will be using on the hunt. I see many hunters buy a cheap box of ammo to sight in their gun and use a totally different load on the hunt. All ammo shoots differently and is magnified at long ranges.

Bullet Weight – You want to get the best trajectory and energy transfer for the cartridge you are shooting, which often means choosing the correct bullet weight. Flat trajectory is very important in this open country. For instance, you wouldn’t want to hunt open country elk using a .30-06 loaded with 200 grain bullets. It seems logical to use as heavy a bullet as possible on a big animal, but it doesn’t work that way with long range hunting. The 200gr .30-06 bullet might have high energy coming out of the muzzle, but it will have terrible trajectory at long distance, unlike a flatter shooting 165 grain .30-06 bullet would. If you look at the charts of the offered bullet weights for a particular cartridge, the middle weight will more than likely give you the best trajectory and knockdown power at long range. The key is performance at long range. For instance: a .243 should get the best long range performance with a 90gr bullet, a .270 should get the best long range performance with a 130-140gr, a 7mm Magnum should get the best long range performance with a 150gr, a .30-06 should get the best long range performance with a 165gr, a .300 Winchester Magnum or .300 Short Magnums should get the best performance with a 165gr, a .300 Remington Ultra Magnum should get the best long range performance with a 180gr, a .325 Magnum should get the best long range performance with a 200gr, and a .338 Magnum should get the best long range performance with a 225gr. If you cannot find these weights, then go lighter.

Weight of Gear – I strongly urge big game hunters to bring field items that are LIGHTWEIGHT, without compromising quality of course. If you can save a few ounces on each item, it can add up to pounds and will be felt (or not felt) at the end of the day. Bringing items into the field like: rifles with varmint barrels or heavy wooden stocks, big spotting scopes, big tripods, field chairs, sand bags, video cameras, big SLR cameras with telephoto lenses, sidearms, multiple boxes of ammo, chair or stool, giant Rambo knives, etc., is a common mistake. Also, after the first hike, you will figure out that there are things in your pack that you don’t need. Unfortunately, it always takes that first hike for people to figure this out. If there is anything in your pack that you don’t really need (within reason), then leave it behind. Saving weight reduces fatigue while in the field, allowing you to go that extra mile, thus, increasing your odds of harvesting a real trophy and having a more enjoyable hunt!

Temperature/Weather – The climate in Arizona and New Mexico is very arid and dry with the humidity often being around 5%. There is nothing to hold in the heat. This means the fluctuation between morning and afternoon temps could be drastic. Morning temps, as a general rule, are usually 35-40 degrees different from afternoon temps. That means if it is 65 degrees as a daytime high, the nighttime low will usually drop to about 25 or 30. The sun is intense during the day, but once the sun goes down, it could get quite bone chilling and happen very quickly. Therefore, we recommend layering. Also, the wind will typically blow about 10-30mph for at least half of your hunt, so expect temps to feel cooler than they really are. Rain and snow are not normal, but could happen on your hunt.

CLOTHING

• Coat
• Beanie
• Neck Warmer
• Good Boots
• Sock Liners
• Belt
• Leather Gloves
• Underwear
• Hats
• Saw/Knives
• Flashlight
• Water Bottle/Bladder Light Weight Bags
• Folding Saw
• Padded Seat
• Utensils
• Scope Cover
• Hunting License Plate
• Hand Warmers
• Permit/Tag

TOILETRIES/FIRST AID

• Toiletry Bag
• Anti-Diarrhea Meds
• Neosporin
• Thermals
• Rain Gear Camouflage/Orange
• Underwear
• Gloves
• Shirts (long/short)
• Socks
• Pants

OPTICS/ELECTRONICS

• Spotting scope
• Extra Memory Card(s)
• Mole Skin Sun Screen
• Soap (Travel Size)
• Talcom Powder
• Chapstick
• Tooth Paste
• Baby Wipes
• Body Powder (Travel Size)
• Tooth Brush
• Energy Additives
• Band-Aids Towel (Travel Size)
• First Aid Kit
• Shampoo (Travel Size)
• Aspirin
• Medical Tape
• GPS/Radio
• Binoculars
• Satellite Phone
• Radio Ear-Bud
• Tri-pod
• Camera Adapter
• Lens Cloth
• Range Finder
• Wireless Mic
• Video Camera
• Strong Pain Medicine

MISCELLANEOUS

• Twine
• Electrical Tape
• Rope

OPTIONAL

• Knee Pads
• Game Calls
• Chaps
• Tent
• Lighter
• Leatherman
• Gun Cleaning Kit
• Bi-Pod
• Gun Scabbard
• Camera
• Extra Camera Batteries
• Camera Charger

EQUIPMENT

• Weapon
• Backpack
• Backpack Rain Cover
• Ear Protection
• Scent Block
• Headlamp
• (3) Zip Ties
• Water Purifier
• Belt Loop Bullet Holder
• Sleeping Bag
• Surgical Gloves
• Dry Bags
• Sunglasses
• Walking Stick
• Pillow/ case
• Meat Bags
• Shoe Laces
• Small Unbreakable Mirror
• Water
• Cooler (If Traveling By Vehicle)

HAPPY HUNTING!

ELK HUNTING GEAR LIST

Base Pack

• Water Bladder
• Drinking Tube Kit

Shelter & Sleeping

• Tent
• Sleeping Bag
• Sleeping Pad

Cooking & Drinking

• Stove
• Utensil
• Water Filter
• Filter Backup
• Bladder for Flavored Drinks
• Food/Trash Hangbag

Packed Clothes

• Socks
• Underwear
• Base Bottom
• Insulation
• Rainwear
• Beanie
• Neck/Face Gaiter

Personal/Hygene

• Toothbrush/Paste
• Baby Wipes & TP
• Backpacking Towel

Safety & Essentials

• Map
• Compass & Whistle
• Lighter
• 3mm Accessory Cord
• Carabiner
• Fire Tinder
• First Aid
• Emergency Shelter
• Pen & Notebook

Kill Kit

• Knife
• Parachute Cord
• Tags & License
• Flagging Tape
• Gloves
• Game Bags

Electronics

• Headlamp w/ Batteries
• Extra AAA
• Camera
• Camera Battery x4
• SD Card x2
• GPS w/ Batteries
• Extra AA

Hunting Gear

• Range Finder
• Wind Checker
• Calls
• Bugle
• Decoy
• Bow Repair
• Extra Release

Clothing

• Boots
• Base Top
• Mid Top
• Pant
• Ball Cap
• Watch

Optics

• Binoculars

Bow

• Bow
• Quiver with Arrows
• Release

HAPPY HUNTING!

GENERAL ARCHERY HUNTING GEAR LIST

Each season I am asked by many hunters which brand or type of a certain item I recommend. As with anything, it is important to buy the highest quality equipment that you can afford. This eliminates having to purchase that item again or more often than you would like. I also strongly recommend buying items of minimal weight. This cuts back on fatigue while in the field, allowing you to go that extra mile.

Binoculars – If you are to own one set of binoculars, the 10X42 would be the best all-around size. Binocular sizes that work well for open country hunts (such as coues, mule deer, antelope, bear, sheep) would be: 10X42, 12X50 or 15X56. For forest hunts (such as archery elk and turkey): 8X30, 10X32, or 10X42. Swarovski, and Leica are superior European glasses that bring in much light and detail. I highly recommend them. If you don’t want to spend $1200-$3200 on a pair of these fine European optics, the higher end models of Vortex are great binoculars.

Bipod – It is highly recommended that you mount a bipod on your rifle. Don’t skimp and buy an “off the wall” brand thinking they are all the same. I have used most bipods on the market. Most cheap brands come apart after a few uses in the rugged mountains or are designed poorly causing wobble.

Sleeping Bag -Sleeping bags come in all shapes and sizes but what is important is the thermal rating and compactness (packing in your luggage for the plane). Cold month hunts in November through April may be spent in wall tents. Outside nighttime temperatures may get as low as 10 degrees, with inside tent temperatures around 50 with the heater on. If the heater goes out in the middle of the night (and it more than likely will), you need to be prepared.   I recommend a 20 degree rating for those cold weather hunts. During mild weather hunts, I recommend a 40-50 degree rating. Slumberjack, Eureka, and REI have a line of compact sleeping bags at various temperature ratings that fit nicely into your luggage. Also, don’t forget a small travel pillow or Coleman camp pillow. These stuff into a sack to save room for luggage packing.

Beanie – A beanie is great for keeping your head warm while sleeping during cold weather hunts. It eliminates the need to bury your head under your sleeping bag and it actually keeps your whole body warmer while sleeping.
Tweezers – Every plant in the desert can either poke, stick or jab you, often leaving stickers and thorns throughout your body. Tweezers are essential in getting these thorns out if they happen to occur, especially the fine cactus needles. It seems like the most favorable activity for our hunters during downtime is to sit around camp and pull out thorns…

Blisters – For those who are prone to blisters, mole skin is a great remedy. Also, the small pads for corns and callous by Dr. Scholl’s work well around blisters too. There are also gel-type blister bandages on the market. Many hunters have quit hunting or gone home early because of severe blisters.

Daypack – Most hunters come with packs too small…. One reason to have a good-sized pack is to handle all the layers of clothing that you will be peeling off during the day. Remember that mornings are often 35-40 degrees cooler than noontime temps, which means you will be layering. Another reason to have a decent pack is that, if you tag an animal, you will need to take the guide’s gear in your pack (and they have a lot of stuff) as he packs out the game. If it is a large animal such as a bear or elk, you will need to help pack out the game. You do not need a giant backpack, but a good daypack with a waste strap for putting the weight above the hips and not all on the shoulders is best. You should have a mid-sized pack with a capacity around 2000 – 3000cu-in.

Water Transport – As many as three-hundred people die in the desert per year due to severe dehydration. Having enough water in your pack is very important in this arid environment, especially after the kill. Once you kill, you just doubled or even tripled your water requirement in order to help pack out the extra weight.

Hiking Boots – Get a boot with good ankle support and deep traction lugs.

Hiking Socks – A good pair of wool blend socks is essential to keeping your feet from being too moist and helps to eliminate blisters. Please, for the sake of the other hunters in your tent, bring one pair per day!

Walking Stick or Trekking Pole – A walking stick or trekking pole will help to stabilize you on the loose ground or steep slopes. Most models are compact, lightweight and telescopic, folding down to around 25″. Make sure to use the rubber tip, as the metal tip clanking on the ground scares game on a regular basis. Some hiking sticks have a V-yoke to act as a shooting stick. This can be a very useful tool when getting a “surprise” offhand shot.

Clothing – There are many brands on the market, but what is important is the material they are made of. High performance hunting clothing is not 100% Cotton. Try a polyester/cotton blend or, better yet, a 100% poly material.

Camouflage Pattern – The Camo pattern to bring depends upon which type of hunt you will be on; either a desert hunt or a forest hunt. Desert hunts such as bighorn sheep, bear, deer, javelina, and antelope require lighter camo patterns like Natural Gear, Mossy Oak Brush, King’s Desert Shadow, or Sitka Gear’s Optifade Open Country. Most colors in the desert during hunting season are light shades of gray/brown. Stay away from the really bright “prairie” patterns though. You’ll stand out like a sore thumb using the prairie patterns. Forest hunts such as Elk and Turkey require darker camo patterns like Mossy Oak New Break-Up or Real Tree AP and even Kuiu Verde.

Portable Field Seat Cushion – This may not sound too important, but when you are glassing and sitting on a cold, jagged boulder for hours, it is invaluable. The comfort a foam pad brings will help you be more patient. Make sure it is not too big or it will be cumbersome to carry in or on your pack. Don’t bring a field chair unless you don’t mind carrying the added weight or bulk.

12-Volt Vehicle Cell Phone Charger – If you really need to use and re-charge your cell during the hunt, bring a 12-volt vehicle cell phone charger (cigarette lighter plug). The guides may let you plug into their vehicle when you need charging. I recommend turning off your cell phone until you need to make a call. If you keep the phone on during the daytime, it will search for a tower, thus, drain your battery within hours.

Weight of Gear – I strongly urge big game hunters to bring field items that are LIGHTWEIGHT, without compromising quality of course.   If you can save a few ounces on each item, it can add up to pounds and will be felt (or not felt) at the end of the day. Bringing items into the field like: rifles with varmint barrels or heavy wooden stocks, big spotting scopes, big tripods, field chairs, sand bags, video cameras, big SLR cameras with telephoto lenses, giant Rambo knives, etc., is a common mistake. Also, after the first hike, you will figure out that there are things in your pack that you don’t need. Unfortunately, it always takes that first hike for people to figure this out. If there is anything in your pack that you don’t really need (within reason), then leave it behind. Saving weight reduces fatigue while in the field, allowing you to go that extra mile, thus, increasing your odds of harvesting a real trophy and having a more enjoyable hunt!

CLOTHING

• Coat
• Beanie
• Neck Warmer
• Good Boots
• Sock Liners
• Belt
• Leather Gloves
• Underwear
• Hats
• Thermals
• Rain Gear Camouflage/Orange
• Underwear
• Gloves
• Shirts (long/short)
• Socks
• Pants

ARCHERY GEAR

• Bow
• broadheads
• Releases
• Arm guard
• Spare sight, pins, string w/ accessories, nocks, cable set, arrow rest, glue
• Allen wrench set
• String wax
• Hunting license

OPTICS/ELECTRONICS

• Spotting scope
• Extra Memory Card(s)
• GPS/Radio
• Binoculars
• Satellite Phone
• Radio Ear-Bud
• Tri-pod
• Camera Adapter
• Lens Cloth
• Range Finder
• Wireless Mic
• Video Camera
• Camera
• Extra Camera Batteries
• Camera Charger

EQUIPMENT

• Weapon
• Backpack
• Backpack Rain Cover
• Ear Protection
• Scent Block
• Headlamp
• Saw/Knives
• Flashlight
• Water Bottle/Bladder Light Weight Bags
• Folding Saw
• Padded Seat
• Utensils
• Scope Cover
• Hunting License Plate
• Hand Warmers
• Permit/Tag

TOILETRIES/FIRST AID

• Toiletry Bag
• Anti-Diarrhea Meds
• Neosporin
• Mole Skin Sun Screen
• Soap (Travel Size)
• Talcom Powder
• Chapstick
• Tooth Paste
• Baby Wipes
• Body Powder (Travel Size)
• Tooth Brush
• Energy Additives
• Band-Aids Towel (Travel Size)
• First Aid Kit
• Shampoo (Travel Size)
• Aspirin
• Medical Tape
• Strong Pain Medicine

MISCELLANEOUS

• Twine
• Electrical Tape
• Rope

OPTIONAL

• Knee Pads
• Game Calls
• Chaps
• Tent
• Lighter
• Leatherman
• (3) Zip Ties
• Water Purifier
• Sleeping Bag
• Surgical Gloves
• Dry Bags
• Sunglasses
• Walking Stick
• Pillow/ case
• Meat Bags
• Shoe Laces
• Small Unbreakable Mirror
• Water
• Cooler (If Traveling By Vehicle

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TURKEY HUNTING GEAR LIST

Preparation:
Acquire Landowner’s Permission			Mend any Torn Blinds				Set Blind
Buy Landowner Gift (Gander Mtn. Gift Card)			Organize/Pack				Sharpen Knife/Broadheads
Buy License			Practice Calling				Sight/Tune/Pattern/Test/Practice
Check all Batteries			Read Local Rules, Regulations,				Update Electronics
			Restrictions, Limits etc.				(Charts/Maps/Locators)
Clean Binoculars/Scope			Read/Watch Instructional
			Books and Videos
Clean Firearm			Scouting/Game Cameras/Food Plotting
Archery Specific Equipment:
Arm Guard			Broadheads				Replacement Nocks
Arrows			Field Points				Rest
Bag/Block/3D Targets			Gloves – Release/Finger Tab				Sight
Bow			Kisser Button				Sound Dampeners
Bow Case (Hard/Soft)			Quiver				Stabilizer
Broadhead Sharpener/Replacement Blades			Release				Wrist Sling
General Hunting Equipment:
Ammunition			Cleaning Kit/Oil/Oil Cloth					Range Finder
Back Pack/Waist Pack			Cameras/Batteries/Memory Cards					Rifle/Shotgun/Muzzleloader
Blind Bag			Game Ear (Amplifier/Wireless Com.)					Scope with Caps
Camo Face Paint			Ground Blind/Blind Material					Shooting Stick
Camo Tape			Gun Case (Hard/Soft)					Spotting Scope
Clothing:
Baseball Hat – Camo		Ghillie Suit					Shirt – Camo Short-Sleeved
Belt – Camo		Jacket – Camo Windproof/Pullover					Socks – Breathable and Insulated
Boots – Insulated/Un-Insulated		Long Underwear					Socks – Liner
Depending on Weather Conditions		Insulated/Moisture Wicking
Boots – Waterproof/Snakeproof		Pants – Camo					Stocking Hat – Camo
Facemask – Camo		Rain Suit					Turkey Vest
Gloves – Insulated/Un-Insulated		Shirt – Camo Long-Sleeved
Depending on Weather Conditions
General Accessories:
2-Way Radios		GPS/Map/Personal Locator					Safety/Shooting Glasses
Batteries		Hand Sanitizer					Seat/Stool (Bucket/Cushion)
Binocular Harness		Hand Warmers					Sunglasses and Case
Binoculars		Hearing Protection					Sunglasses Leash
Bug Spray/Insect Repellant Device		High Energy Food/Snacks					Sunscreen
Camera		Hydration Pack					Toilet Paper/Paper Towels
Compass		Ice					Trail Marking Tape/Tacks
Cooler		Identification					Water
First-Aid Kit		Knife Sharpener					Waterproof Stuff Sack
Flares		Knife/Multi-Tool					Wind Indicator
Flashlight/Headlamp		Lighter/Matches with Case
Glass/Lens Cleaner		Rope (50 ft.)
Calls:
Box Call			Diaphragm Calls				Push-Button Call
Box Call Chalk			Gobble Call				Sandpaper
Box Call Holder and Silencer			Locator Call (Crow/Owl)				Scotch-Brite Pad
Call Lanyard			Mouth Calls				Slate/Glass/Ceramic/
							Aluminum Pot/Peg Calls
Decoys:
Hen	Jake								Gobbler
After the Shot:
Freezer Paper and Tape				Plastic Bags			String for License/Zip Ties
Gutting Gloves (Wrist/Shoulder Length)				Processing Kit/Knives

 

Equipment List for Sheep & Goat Hunts

PACK LIGHT – BUT BE THOROUGH! You will probably be using your backpack as your luggage on the commercial flights. It will need to be checked- make sure it is labeled with your name, phone, email and address. If lost, you will need to be able to recover it, hopefully. Note: When you check your back pack we strongly advise that you put your backpack into a protective cover or bag. Loose straps could get caught on airline conveyor belt resulting in total failure of the pack. We like to take a second small carry-on day pack- 1500 to 2500 cubic inches. We keep cameras, rangefinders, binoculars, passport, critical medical needs and similar indispensables with us – not in checked luggage. NO KNIVES PLEASE in carry-ons! Check on all your flights to see what are the size limits for carry-ons – it varies widely!

THE LIST BELOW IS OF TOP NOTCH PREMIUM BRANDS- OTHERS WILL WORK TOO!

The equipment listed below will cost a small fortune to buy all at once –many substitutes will work- if in doubt- ask us or your outfitter!! We have put together the IDEAL equipment, less will work with care in choices.

• Hunting licenses, Tags, a hunting license from your home state or country and all needed hunting documents including hunter safety cards.
• Learn the regulations! KNOW the game laws for your hunt species and area – no excuses!
• Flat shooting rifle with high quality Scope, Stainless nice but not critical; Synthetic stocks are generally less prone to swelling and changing impact and can be useful due to wet, nasty weather and rough rocks! Calibers: 270 to 300 magnums. SIGHT IT IN CAREFULLY AND KNOW YOUR BALLISTICS! Be comfortable to at least 400 yards if possible! And re-check on arrival. As you go higher, the air is thinner and bullets tend to fly higher.
• If using Archery equipment- bring a flat shooting Bow and don’t forget your release and extra releases and arrows, and arm guards and maybe a string.
• 2 boxes of premium grade ammunition (In original factory packaging – TSA requirement)
• Binoculars (10X to 12x), Leica, Zeiss, Swarovski, Leupold, Nikon and others. Keep weight down! A binocular harness is often vital. You will be crawling!
• High quality range finder- do not skimp! Leica has some great ones!
• Otis or similar gun cleaning kit, some black electricians tape to tape gun barrel muzzle opening
• A good quality Knife.
• A quality backpack in the 5000 to 6500 cubic inch range. You do not want straps and catches to fail, and if you pack out meat or capes, you need to know it is capable of handling the weight and the abuse of luggage handlers and rugged mountains. Check all seams and likely rupture points!
• Digital Camera/extra disc/ and battery (keep batteries warm on your body or in sleeping bag.
• Lightweight Video Camera/extra batteries/film
• Iridium Satellite Phone/extra battery and minutes (this could save your life- check to see if outfitter has one).
• Lightweight Headlamp/extra bulb/batteries
• 2 sturdy walking poles (Ship in gun case)- these can save your life- get quality!
• Two 1 qt Nalgene water bottles (6 wraps of duct tape around one bottle- for emergency repairs)
• Thermal drinking mug
• Lexan Spoon
• Lexan Bowl
• Synthetic sleeping bag, 0 to -20 degree, under 3.5 pounds. Wiggly’s Ultra-Light or Barney’s Ibex
• Waterproof compression sleeping bag stuff sack
• Sleeping pad Ultra-Light. Therm-a-rest style with stuff sack
• High quality mountain boots- suggested: Plastic/Hybrid Hunting boots, La Sportiva Men’s Trango S EVO GTX orLa Sportiva Men’s Trango S Evo GTX La Sportiva Men’s Trango S Evo GTX La Sportiva Trango Extreme EVO GTX, or Scrapa Omega mountaineering climbing boots
• Plastic boot Glacier socks (Barney’s Sport Chalet)
• Set of boot insole pads/liners
• Gaiters for deep snow or brush or streams
• Crock Shoes (lounging at night/water crossings)
• 2 Ace Bandages
• Small Spenco blister kit with extra non-padded mole skin
• Small personal First aid kit
• Survival kit…a candle, lighter and space blanket
• Enough waterproof stuff sacks for clothes/gear – in various sizes
• 3 pair of Bridgedale coolmax sock liners
• 3 pair of med weight hiking, Smartwool socks
• 1 pair of long underwear set, Polar-max XG or Under Armor or comparable
• 1 synthetic wind stopper Shirt
• 2 synthetic underwear, t-shirts and handkerchiefs
• 1 pair Sporthill SP3 Mountain cross-country ski hunting pants
• 1 pair lightweight wind stopper Mammut Champ pants
• Light weight wind stopper Sitka Gear 90% Jacket
• Wiggly L-6 Insulated Pullover or Mtn. Hardware Compressor Jacket or Barneys Brooks Range Jacket
• Some quiet Rain gear: lightweight, parka ¾ length and pants, HH, Impertech or Mtn. Hardware
• 1 pair of thermax glove liners
• 1 pair Power Stretch 150 Windproof gloves
• 1 pair leather gloves
• Wool Beanie
• Wool Balaclava
• Personal hygiene kit, tooth brush & paste
• Small bottle of medicated foot powder to powder feet before bed (keeps blisters away)
• Your necessary Medications, Motrin, Aspirin/pills/sunscreen/lip balm/small insect repellant/ Potassium pills for leg cramping/Benadryl for bug bites…etc.
• Extra pair of prescription glasses or contact lenses
• Polarized sunglasses (non-shiny)
• Town/Traveling clothes, Traveling Cash, Credit Card (s)
• Important phone numbers: Keep handy while you are traveling
• Book (s) – you could spend 2-3 days in bad weather in a tent!
• Laminated tags from your taxidermist

This information will help you prepare for your hunt. It is a must that you practice and thoroughly know your weapon and accessories. Spend much time practicing during the year and know your weapon limitations as well as your own.
Spend time with you pack fully loaded- break it in so it fits. Solve problems now, not on top of windy mountain!
Remember to keep the 40 -50 pound weight limit. Outfitters will weigh your gear and pull gear out as needed to meet the pound limitations. Streamlined, tough, tested and proven – and light weight are the key words here. You may use small aircraft, rubber rafts, horses and your legs to get into hunting grounds. Space is extremely limited and weight is a huge concern. We suggest talking to and going over this list in detail with your outfitter – well before your hunt. If you come from low elevations and you think you might have altitude problems, Butch suggests you get a prescription for Diamox from your Doctor, and start it a couple days pre-hunt. It could prevent a serious problem!!
When you arrive you must be 100% packed, ready to grab your gear and go straight into the field right then if need be, so plan according. Good flying days are precious!! Have your gear and personal affairs in order well before hand — and be in the top physical condition of your life. Weight train for strength and cross train for cardio—— it is a must prior to your hunt! If you have questions please call ASAP, so you can get them resolved NOW!
To hunt good trophies is admirable; but to have an unrealistic ego problem is something else. This is hunting, not buying animals off the shelf. If you take an observer, expect to lose some opportunities. If you share a guide, you may lose some opportunities, but you might save some money and it might bring you happiness to be with your friend. We do not want your friend to suddenly become your enemy and ruin everybody’s hunt. Hunting is an adventure in the unknown. If you want to hunt and to be pleasant, we have a place for you. If not, don’t come. If booze makes you mean, leave it behind. If you are not tough, don’t book a tough hunt.

BRING ALONG A GREAT SENSE OF HUMOR- THIS IS NOT HOME!! THINGS HAPPEN-BE PATIENT!
BUT if the outfitter is not doing right by you- then face them and make them fix it, if they can. Better that than staying unhappy and keeping your mouth shut and guaranteeing a poor hunt! We try hard to find quality outfitters, but things can go awry- so speak up firmly but nicely. They want you happy!!

HAPPY HUNTING!

ALASKA/CANADA HUNTING GEAR LIST

Much of the hunting for bear, moose, and caribou takes hunters into low, rolling, mountainous regions with heavy brush and timber at the lower elevations. Rainy or snowy weather is common. Valley areas often have lakes, rivers, stream or swamps. Hunters need more specialized clothing. Snow and cold are possible any month of the year.
A typical day on a hunt is to walk or ride out of a spike camp into a higher piece of ground and then sit and watch for game, sometimes for hours, so layered clothing is important. Dress lighter when moving and carry a daypack with heavier clothing to keep you warm and comfortable while you are sitting and glassing for game. But be prepared for a sudden brisk hike when your quarry is sighted. Go light, but be prepared for any occasion.

Our gear suggestions include the following:

Daypack – Your daypack should have approximately 2,000 square inches of capacity. Roughly enough to stuff your coat, lunch, and survival kit into. A few extra pockets on the outside are handy for flashlights, extra batteries, maps, etc. The best packs are the top-load models, without zippers on the sides. Zippers often break, making the pack useless. Nylon is the toughest and lightest, although some fleece models work well also. Fleece tends to pick up burrs and brush. Pick what is right for your area.

Boots – Sore feet have ruined more mountainous hunts than any other single problem. If you are going to be based out of a spike camp where you can take two pairs of boots, take them. Wear a different pair of boots each day, allowing the boots to dry out for a day. While Gore-Tex-style boots work well for a few days, perspiration from your feet will eventually dampen the interior of the boot enough that it will begin to feel clammy and your feet will get cold. If your boot has a changeable liner, take extra liners and rotate them every day, drying the used pair daily. If you expect real cold, the Sorel-type boot with a heavy felt lining is your salvation. This flexibility makes it easier to control the climate in your boot, and happy feet are tough feet. Moleskin, available at all drug stores, is the answer in case of chafing or blistering.

Canteen – In drier weather, it is important to have about two quarts of water with you. In cooler weather, one quart will do. Wide mouths are best.

Hip Boots – Hip boots are a necessary evil. Because of the wet, marshy areas and high brush, hip boots are the best choice for the hunter. Since considerable walking may be necessary, specialized ankle-fit boots are best. These boots are designed a little snugger around the ankle and it makes it a lot easier to walk. Buy the boots about a half size larger and put in a polypropylene inner sole to give you a little more protection from rock bruising and additional warmth.

Rain Suits – Hunters should take rubberized rain suits on all hunts. Generally, if it rains, it really rains-often pushed along by strong winds. Since the areas can be brushy, hunters are often pushing their way through brushy regions, and there is nothing worse than wet brush! A regular rubberized suit is best for this type of hunt. A full-length jacket with a zipper or button front to provide ventilation is essential. Buy at least one size larger to accommodate layered clothing. Take rain pants, too, for maximum protection.

Gloves – Due to the inclement conditions, Gore-Tex mitts or gloves are probably the best bet for the hunter. Take three or four pairs. Also take a pair of leather mittens with fleece liners and a pair of insulated finger gloves.

Hats – A water resistant and insulated hat with warm ear flaps and visor to keep water off of your glasses. Wind is often a problem. You may be sitting for hours glassing for game. Use the hood on your rain jacket to keep water from running down your neck.

Sitting Pad – Since you will be sitting for hours, often on damp ground, it is pretty handy to have some type of pad to sit on. A small, waterproof insulating pad is a good bet. It will keep a Jacket-Midweight wool, with new miracle fleece-type fabric is generally best.

Vest – A synthetic fill vest with a collar is a small item that can save your day.

Underwear – The best underwear is a synthetic fiber. The lighter weight underwear is generally adequate on these hunts. We suggest the zip-down turtleneck. You can control the warmth of the garment and provide better venting. It is a great idea to take two pairs of long underwear.

Socks – Three pairs of heavy socks and three pairs of lightweight socks, preferably designed for anti-blistering. The socks can be washed and dried daily.

Sleeping Bags – Because of the varied, often unexpected, conditions a hunter can experience while hunting mountainous terrain, it is often better to take two lightweight sleeping bags. I prefer synthetic bags. Place one bag inside the other. The inside bag should be the mummy type, a more compact model. The outside bag can be a rectangular one that offers a little more room. Since you have two bags, you can leave the outside bag open if you encounter warmer weather. Should it get cold, zip both bags up and you can brave subzero temperatures. Since sleeping bags are bulky, hunters should obtain a compression stuff sack to help bind the bags into a smaller parcel for easier transportation.

Sleeping Pad – If space permits, a full-length pad, two inches thick, goes well under old bones. Outfitters often supply pads.

Pants – A lightweight wool or fleece model is ideal. Try to find pants with extra pockets in the legs (cargo pockets). You never have enough pockets for handkerchiefs, flashlights, etc. Take two pairs. Clothes that fit a bit loose are a good idea.

Shirts -Three lightweight shirts with long sleeves. Wool is generally best.

SEE CHECKLIST BELOW

CLOTHING/APPAREL

• Coat
• Beanie
• Sock Liners
• Neck Warmer
• Boots
• Pants

OPTICS/ELECTRONICS

• Spotting scope
• Extra Memory Card(s)
• GPS/Radio
• Binoculars
• Radio Ear-Bud
• Tri-pod
• Camera Adapter
• Lens Cloth/Stick
• Range Finder
• Wireless Mic
• Video Camera
• Camera
• Extra Camera Batteries
• Camera Charger

EQUIPMENT

• Rifle
• Backpack
• Flashlight
• Muk-Boots
• Sling
• Windproof Facemask
• Scent Block
• Headlamp
• Satellite Phone
• Bi-Pod
• Wyoming Saw Knives
• Camp Shoes
• Zip Ties
• Water Purifier
• Measuring Tape
• Travel Clothes
• Surgical Gloves
• Super Glue
• Bug Net
• Sunglasses
• Walking Stick
• Solar Charger
• Mini Sewing Kit
• Sling
• Bug Dope
• Pillow
• Meat Bags
• Watch
• Small Unbreakable Mirror
• Thermacell/Cartridges
• Water
• Passport
• White Outer Layer
• Belt
• Leather Gloves
• Gators
• Hats
• Thermals
• Backpack Rain Cover
• Bullets
• Water Bottle/Bladder Light Weight Bags
• Ear Protection
• Belt Loop Bullet Holder
• Folding Saw
• Padded Seat
• Waders
• Utensils
• Scope Cover
• Hunting License
• Hand Warmers
• Permit/Tag
• Goggles

TOILETRIES/FIRST AID

• Toiletry Bag
• Anti-Diarrhea Meds
• Neosporin
• Mole Skin
• Sun Screen
• Soap (Travel Size)
• Talcom Powder
• Chapstick
• Tooth Paste
• Baby Wipes
• Body Powder (Travel Size)
• Tooth Brush
• Energy Additives
• Rain Gear
• Camouflage/orange
• Underwear
• Gloves
• Shirts (long/short)
• Socks
• Band-Aids
• Towel (Travel Size)
• First Aid Kit
• Vitamins
• Shampoo (Travel Size)
• Aspirin
• Medical Tape
• Strong Pain Medicine

OPTIONAL

• Sleeping Bag
• Travel Insurance
• Snow Shoes
• Game Calls
• Bore Snake
• Bullets
• Twine
• Rope
• Boot Waterproofing
• Chaps (Horses)
• Sleeping Pad
• Lighter
• Leatherman
• Gun Cleaning Kit
• Bi-Pod
• Gun Scabbard (Horses)
• Cotton Swabs in Vaseline

HAPPY HUNTING!

AFRICAN SAFARI EQUIPMENT LIST

Having hunted Africa a number of times, we have some firm ideas of what equipment you need to have with you to hunt the Dark Continent. Please realize that conditions across Africa can vary widely, from highlands to lowlands; from thick bush to open savannah; from desert to swamp. Temperatures vary widely from frost to over 100 degrees, so this list is a rough guide ONLY.
Some of the things suggested you may not need; and you may need some not suggested. A typical plains game hunt differs from say- a cape buffalo hunt in a swampy area of Mozambique. What follows are general suggestions for your upcoming hunt. No list can cover every possible combination of weather or circumstance, but this will help you.
Adjust the list for your time of year and species, and style of African hunt. If you are climbing in sharp rock on kopjes (hills)—then a rugged boot sole with good ankle protections is needed. If doing leopard from a blind, super quiet clothing in black or very dark camo is needed. Call us for any assistance. Generally, bear in mind you need to adjust this list for anything unusual in the way of weather (eg-extreme heat or rain conditions) –or in the type of hunt. If in doubt ask!!!! We have been there and we have done it!! So please use our expertise!

In order to import your guns into So. Africa- you need permission (a permit). We strongly urge anyone traveling to Africa or going thru So. Africa to speak with us and get our advice.

DOCUMENTATION:

• Passport
• Plane Tickets
• Wallet And Money
• Copies Of Documentation About Hunt From Bmoa
• Gun Permit Forms
• US Customs Form 4457 For Guns And Cameras (Go To Nearest Customs Office Taking The Items With You!)
• A Current Hunting License- From Somewhere (Use To Back Up Your Claim You Are A Hunter Not A Terrorist!)
• A Medical Shot Card- Nice But Often Ignored.
• List Of Medical Conditions And Medications- Keep With You!! (Eg- Diabetes; Heart Problems, Etc). Allergies To Medications- Spell Them Out-Keep It With You.

TRAVEL WITH SPORTING WEAPONS

• 1. When commuting through New York, Washington and Atlanta please make sure you have a minimum of 2hrs between flights, after recent research it shows that 83% of firearms did not make it to South Africa on the same flight as the owner, if the in-transit period was less than 2hrs.
  2. After arriving in SA and need to take a connecting flight give yourself a minimum of 3hrs between arrival and departure to your next destination.
  3. Confirm you put your firearm in an approved airline firearm case. Do not pack your firearm in your checked luggage in an ordinary suitcase.
  4. Ammunition must be packed in a lockable box with key and placed in the checked luggage.
     *Ammo found in checked luggage in a manufacturer’s box or just thrown in will be taken out and put into a plastic bag and sent to the next destination. It is then the responsibility of the passenger to get the ammo home, which he can’t do if his luggage has been checked through to his home base.
  5. Please mark your firearm case clearly with your name, address and contact number, often we find cases with no identification on them and struggle to get them returned to the owner as we have to search the lost luggage files at the airlines and get a description of the bag before trying to trace its owner.
  6. Make sure you have the US customs forms 4457 or your license (depending on where you come from) when you leave home, we had a fair number of people arriving without proof of ownership and wanting to get a temporary firearm permit on arrival, The Embassy of the United State has been helpful in this regard, but you do loose 2/3 days of your hunt getting the right paperwork together.

SHOTS/VACCINATIONS: Talk to your personal physician well in advance of leaving. He will need to know where in Africa you are going. Do some research. Some of the anti malaria meds have wicked side effects on some people- severe hallucinatory effects that can be dangerous or debilitating! Most of the plains game hunts are malaria free areas- but check with your DOC!
Malaria – What is it?

• Malaria is a parasitic disease transmitted by infected female mosquitoes.
• Malaria may occur as soon as 1 week after you enter the tropics and may progress rapidly, causing seizures, coma, breathing and kidney problems, and death.
• The initial symptoms of malaria look much like the common flu: fever, chills, headache, and generalized aches and pains
• A blood test is needed to determine if you have malaria.

Many areas of Africa are Malaria free- others are not- check with your doctor- if a writeup says malaria free- it is not a guarantee- be prudent and talk to a medical pro.
SUGGESTEDFIREARMS: Vary widely with game hunted but here are some thoughts:
PLAINS GAME,– If using a gun- we generally recommend the use of a bolt action with a high quality variable scope (forget the cheap scopes-spend $300 or more and stick to Leupold, Redfield and the higher priced imports like Swarovski, Zeiss and Leica). Mount a scope on good mounts-I do not like the see thru mounts-they put your head up too high for fast positioning. I suggest something like generally semi- auto rifles and shotguns are prohibited! A 2X7 or 3X9 scope sight for calibers such as the .270, 30-06; .280; 7MM Mag; 300 Mag or similar. The 30-06, 7MM Mags, 300 Magnums; and anything larger if you shoot it well are great, but all the named calibers are fine. We have done extremely well with the any of the 7 Mags, and with all the 30 caliber mags. Even the venerable 30-06 will do a very adequate job, but watch your shot placement.
ONE IMPORTANT THING- ALMOST ALL AFRICAN GAME CARRIES ITS’ VITALS FURTHER FORWARD THAN MOST AMERICAN GAME!! DO NOT SHOOT ONE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BODY- YOU WILL LIKELY LOSE IT! REMEMBER- IN AFRICA- WOUND IT- YOU BOUGHT IT!!
There are books you can buy showing shot placement on African game. Spend the $0 or $50 bucks- it’s cheaper then wasting a $500 trophy fee on a lost animal!   So shoot carefully and use enough gun! Use a good stout bullet that will penetrate deeply and hopefully leave an exit wound. Use any good premium bullets like Nosler partitions, Swift A Frames (personal favorites), Trophy Bonded Bear Claw or similar. Be careful with Barnes X- they penetrate and keep going- can force you to buy a second animal if you wound it!
DANGEROUS GAME:
If you are hunting dangerous game such as CAPE BUFFALO or LION– then our favorite is the.375 Magnum. There are several of them now. Butch sticks with the old .375 H&H- mainly because ammo is easily found. The short Ruger .375 is a super cartridge- but lose your ammo and you might be stuck! The 416 Rigby is good, 416 Remington too. These 416’s are fine for elephant too—as are the larger calibers, but many hunters do not shoot them as well as they shoot the .375 Mag-and the .375 is really quite flat shooting- so it can do for plains game also! For dangerous game I would sight in at most with a one hundred yard zero; shots can be from 30 to 200 yards. For any game, and certainly for all dangerous game, try and hold your shots to 150 yards or less.
READ A BOOK SHOWING SHOT PLACEMENT BEFORE YOU LEAVE THE U.S.!!
Try for only broad side shots and shoot to take out the lungs and the off side shoulder if possible. Remember vitals are between the legs!! For soft-skinned game like antelope and even leopard, you should zero no more than 1” high at 100 yards with the suggested calibers, and you should be able to hold dead on out to 225 yards. If you have questions- call us on this issue. A quality metal gun case or one of the very heavy indestructible thermo plastics– like the Browning Travel Vaults (Butch’s personal favorite) with solid locks is a must. There are a few new molded plastic cases which seem like they would do- but forget those flat flexible plastic things for under $100 bucks- unless you want to be gunless!! Get a 2 gun case- fill it with extra clothes, socks etc. Butch likes to take out one of the foam inserts, and replace it with a soft gun case that he he can use in vehicles and planes while leaving the cumbersome travel case in camp! A portable cleaning kit is also a grand idea for muzzle obstructions. A little oil too.
SCOPE SIGHTS: If you want a scope for dangerous game -1X4 or a 1.5 X 5 or 2X7 is OK. We do NOT like 3X9 for dangerous game!!   Remember, with any dangerous game, in case of a charge, your final shot may be at 10 to 20 feet- you need to be able to find that critter fast with your scope!! That 1.5 power can do that well!!
SHOT PLACEMENT: There are some good books on shot placement- complete with diagrams. BUT-in general- African game carries lungs and vitals far forward- and I think a shoulder shot placed about 3” forward of the shoulder crease– will work best with the right bullet/rifle. Or angle the shot in- especially for an archer. If in doubt- shoot right at the shoulder – but maybe 6 inches below the point of the shoulder- and also ask your PH –BEFOREHAND!!!!
BOWS AND ARROWS: It is beyond our scope to deal adequately with this complex subject, so call us, as most of us are archers also! In general, we do not like ultra short bows, except maybe for tree stands over waterholes. You most often will be shooting from a seated or kneeling position in a BELOW GROUND blind, so make sure the bow is not too long for that- and bear in mind you will have to have clearance over the top of the bow as well!! For plains game, in general, use the same tackle you would use for elk- you will be in the ball park!! Right thru the fleshy part of the shoulder is best-just learn where the bones are! As always on arrows, bows and heads–don’t skimp and buy junk- you are spending a lot of money to go hunting, not drive around for 3 days to try and hopefully get tackle repaired. Learn how to do simple bow repairs, like restringing or repairing servings. Bring an extra sight, and an extra rest! Expect shots to average 20 to 40 yards, and being good at 50 is a big bonus. BUT, good means good- not “I think I can”! Wound it- you just bought it!!
EAR PLUGS: Protect your hearing when shooting!! And you know that hunters get tired and snore! Earplugs insure a good night’s sleep and also protect your ears when checking your scope on arrival. Butch permanently keeps several sets in his shaving kit. Good for sighting in too! One caution- we have had two instances of hunters not hearing what the PH whispered- due to the ear plugs. Put them in only at last second! One hunter shot a cow buffalo; the other shot the wrong kudu- disasters!
ELECTRICAL: Bring a universal adapter (Radio Shack; Sharper Image etc.) Most use 220volts with a 3 prong electrical plug. It is not like our own 3 prong adapters!
A CAMERA- with extra battery and plenty of film- do not plan on buying it where you are going. I like a compact 35mm with the most telephoto I can find and the ability to set it down and walk over to the trophy and have it shoot on a timer automatically. I also suggest a video cam- compact 8MM or Hi 8 or the new mini-DVD’s are good. The new digital is interesting since you can freeze-frame and print off a picture. Video of live animals always gets lots of comments from friends. Be sure to have optics and cameras put on your Customs form 4457 before you ever leave the US!!
BIPOD OR SHOOTING STICKS. Most shots in Africa will be standing and off of sticks. Believe us- it is not an easy position!! Try it before you leave- -even 3 dowels will work- but learn how you feel best- no time to learn when shooting the kudu of a lifetime! You will have adrenaline coursing, heart pumping, you will be nervous- and you will sway and wobble! BEST HINT- NEVER JUST YANK ONE OFF- EITHER PASS OR WAIT UNTIL EVERYTHING IS PERFECT FOR A CAREFUL SHOT!
Butch always practices with a tripod from the standing position- you can make them or buy a set from Stoney Point (Cabela’s, Bass Pro etc sell them). Butch often will take a bipod for sitting or for prone shots- sometimes you belly up and need the rest! PRACTICE THIS!! Pack them in your rifle case- wrapped in a t-shirt to avoid scratching your gun!
OPTICS:   We suggest a quality binocular in 8 to 12 power. I like 10X40 myself. I like Zeiss; Steiner (great buys); Swarovski; Leupold and similar. However, with the bigger glasses- be weight conscious. Avoid excessively large objective lenses (50MM and bigger). I prefer 40MM.You may want to get a harness which takes the weight off your neck- bino-buddy is one I like. I have never taken a spotting scope to Africa- nice- but just more weight to carry around!
A RIFLE SLING– WE LIKE THE NON-SLIP NEOPRENE SLINGS A LOT. Or sew a button on top of each shoulder to prevent slippage.
A SURVIVAL PACK. This is overkill frankly! Generally you are not far from a safari vehicle. So what follows is a suggestion only. I generally do not carry one. But leaving it in the truck might help in an emergency. Set it up as you like but I suggest:

1. Two means of fire starting-several butane lighters; a metal match, waterproof matches; a large candle
2. a flashlight. In recent years I have used mainly headlamps rather than flashlights. Bring an extra set of batteries and extra bulb. If you want a flashlight- I like one which uses the C cells. I like a plastic waterproof light.
3. a canteen; some iodine tablets for disinfecting water.
4. a supply of your necessary daily medications- allergy- bee stings etc too!!
5. a supply of contact lens stuff and a spare pair;
6. a spare pair of eyeglasses;
7. sunglasses;
8. toilet paper;
9. surveyors flagging tape;
10. band aids and bandages;
11. aspirin or Aleve or ibuprofen- good for inflamed joints and other things;
12. an ankle type bandage for sprains;
13. a leatherman type multi-tool;
14. the correct allen wrenches for adjusting scope mounts and gun;
15. a quality compass (some take two-just in case they do not believe the readings!);
16. an optional item, but one I love is a GPS unit. It has become a favorite tool of mine. You can learn enough in an hour to get by with it- just save the location you leave from each day. Turn it on when you quit- it will give you the direct compass route home. Get one that receives no less than 12 satellites. I have a older Garmin 12XL and like it. These devices can all do a lot more, but simple is best, and finding the way back to your starting point is REALLY best!!

CLOTHING- Most Safari companies will automatically wash your clothing daily- so basically two clothing changes are about all you need!!! Wear one while they wash the other set!

• Boots: With the proliferation of new hi-tech fabrics the choices have become myriad. These have worked well for Butch, but use your own discretion:       A good pair of lightweight leather boots. If you will be in a rocky area, get good tough soles. I like the bob-style soles for rocks. Kangaroo leather boots work well. Butch also often uses a sneaker type boot with ankle support- they are tough and lightweight. You can take both types in the safari vehicle if you will encounter two types of terrain such as plains and kopjes. Switch as needed. I am definitely not a fan of cordura in boots- – you can hear them scratching on underbrush with every step and we have had thorns totally penetrate them. We prefer all leather. Make sure they are broken in. Avoid heavy Vibram type soles- you will do much stalking and need a quiet approach- hence Butch likes his sneaker boots!!
• Socks– bring at 4 pairs. I like a hi-tech liner under wool. Bring several variations of light and heavy.
• Gloves– a lightweight leather glove for crawling- but you will probably never use them!
• Underwear: I like the cool-max skivvies for plains game- but for night time in a leopard blind, lightweight long johns can be nice- it gets cool! Get the good stuff- no cheap cotton waffle weaves!

Pants/Shirts– Two sets, 3 at most. I like cotton for Africa – you can use your camo—or buy the typical safari gear (I prefer the solid olive greens. I avoid the lighter color tans which I feel show up too brightly- but look cool!) . Check with us about camo- most places such as South Africa & Namibia think it is fine-(but never wear military surplus!). Lightweight early season camo is what you want- it can be hot! But it can be cold in early mornings so address that!   Some people like to wear a pair of camo-colored jeans- but jeans make lots of noise on brush- cotton is better! In most cases your regular warm weather camo clothing works just fine!
Coats– I take one of two types of jackets- my first choice is a light gortex camo suede parka which I can layer underneath – with sweaters or sweatshirts. The second choice is the typical so called Safari Jacket- usually in Cotton, preferably light green. Make sure the coats have a soft outside material that will not make rustling and rubbing noises when you walk or crawl. Almost quiet is not good enough! I like the suede type fabrics or the new MT 050 fabric of Cabela’s. Fleece coats eat and hold too many burrs for my taste as an outer garment. FOR LEOPARD IN BLINDS- BLACK POLAR FLEECE, QUIET PANTS TOO! CHILLY IIN BLINDS!
HATS: A good hat to keep the sun off back of neck and ears and off your face. Actually a flats fishing type hat works well- Butch often uses a vented baseball style cap with a built in face mask that he flips over the back of his neck to avoid the sum. Again- keep colors muted. No safari helmets please!!
SWEATER: I like the wind stopper wool zip or button open style that lets it breathe. I like it in camo, or dark green. If you can’t open it up to vent it will wear you out with excess heat and energy drain. An alternative is a camo sweat shirt with foam or fleece lining, to use as either an outer or under garment. It gives me much flexibility in clothing selection for a day, or a night in a leopard blind!
MISCELLANEOUS:
Moleskin for blisters with an antiseptic ointment; Insect repellent or a face mask or both; Extra boot laces;
MONEY/TRAVELERS CHECKS for tips, shopping, unexpected equipment failures, excess luggage charges for transport of trophies etc.; US money is widely accepted for tips, purchases etc.. Never flash your cash though- poverty breeds crime.
Two or three plastic hefty garbage bags for lining duffels to protect against blood leakage or water damage and for myriad other uses- laundry etc.
SLIPPERS FOR NIGHT BATHROOM CALLS
AN ANTI-DIARRHEAL
LIP BALM AND SUN SCREEN
BRING ALONG A GREAT SENSE OF HUMOR- THIS IS NOT HOME!! THINGS HAPPEN-BE PATIENT!
BUT– If The Outfitter/Ph Is Not Doing Right By You- Then Brace Him And Make Him Fix It, If He Can. Better You Do That— Than Stay Unhappy And Keep your Mouth Shut – Thereby Guaranteeing A Poor Hunt!
From Long Experience—Waiting Until You Get Home Is A Recipe For Too Little-Too Late! Outfitters Will Ask Us Here—- Why Didn’t He Tell Me So I Could Have Fixed It? Any Decent Outfitter Should Be Given The Chance To Make It Right- And Most Will!! You Are Their Paying Guest!! Be Tactful- Even Call Us If Necessary! We Try Hard To Find Quality Outfitters, But Things Can Go Awry- SO SPEAK UP FIRMLY BUT POLITEL…… (Eg:” Can You Come Sit Over Here So We Can Get Together And Try And Solve A Problem I Am Having?”—NOT-“LISTEN YOU STUPID SOB!”)
GET IN SHAPE– hike; bike; swim whatever. Work lungs and legs- backs too! Just do it!
PRACTICE off hand snap shots; practice standing off of sticks- a primary mode in Africa; practice kneeling and sitting and prone- shoot some- than shoot some more. I promise it will pay off! And get away from that g. d. shooting bench- i never saw one in the wild! Practice with your shooting sticks; and your bi-pod and use your pack for a rest!
I am sure that no matter how many times I make out this list and review it, I will omit one thing you would have liked. So please–use your own common sense as well as relying on my list.
And Most Importantly- Remember You Are Going To Go And Have Fun- And With Any Luck At All You Will Also Have A Great Hunt!!!      

                                       HAPPY HUNTING

CLOTHING/APPAREL

• Coat Beanie
• Shirts (Long/Short)
• Underwear
• Rain Gear
• Boots
• Safari Jacket Gloves
• Belt
• Leather Gloves
• Safari Shorts & Pants
• Socks
• Hats
• Thermals Sock Liners
• Neutral Color Clothing/Camo
• Short & Long Safari Shirts Lightweight Cottons & Linens

OPTICS/ELECTRONICS

• Spotting scope
• Extra Memory Card(s) Video Camera
• GPS/Radio
• Binoculars Camera
• Radio Ear-Bud
• Tri-pod
• Extra Camera Batteries
• Camera Adapter
• Lens Cloth
• Range Finder

EQUIPMENT

• Rifle Backpack
• Sling
• Tooth Brush Shaver
• Heartburn Remedy
• Energy Additives
• Band-Aids/Skin Cream
• Allergy Remedy
• Medical Tape
• Shampoo (Travel Size)
• Strong Pain Medicine
• Body Soap/Shower Gel
• Q-Tips & Cotton Balls
• Personal/Prescribed Medication

MISCELLANEOUS

• Twine
• Meat Bags
• Walking Stick
• Knee Pads
• Game Calls
• 220V Converter/Adapters
• Water Filtration Bottle
• Lighter
• Leatherman
• Gun Cleaning Kit
• Bi-Pod
• Sling
• Water Purifier
• Lighter/Waterproof Matches
• Small Unbreakable Mirror
• Surgical Gloves
• Dry Bags
• Ear Protection
• Scent Block
• Headlamp
• Bi-Pod Scope Cover
• Knives
• Backpack Rain Cover
• Bullets
• Water Bottle/Bladder Light Weight Bags
• Belt Loop Bullet Holder
• Hand Warmers
• Padded Seat
• Hunting License
• Permit/Tag

TOILETRIES/FIRST AID

• Toiletry Bag
• Anti-Diarrhea Meds
• Neosporin
• Sterile Needles
• Vitamins
• Mole Skin
• Odorless Sunscreen Soap (Travel Size)
• Anti-Malaria Medication
• Painkillers
• Talcom Powder
• Chapstick
• Tooth Paste
• Cold/Flu Tablets
• Motion Sickness Tablets
• Baby Wipes
• Extra Shoelaces
• Money Belt
• Walking Stick
• Insect Repellent/Mosquito Coil/Netting
• Extra Passport Photos (Full Color)
• Travel Alarm Clock and Watch
• Mini Sewing Kit

OPTIONAL

• Journal Sunglasses
• Pocket Knife
• (Fire Starter)
• Book(s) To Read
• Pen/Pencil
• Lip Balm
• Sunglasses
• Swimsuit
• Pillow
• Contact Lens Solution & Disposable Lenses
• Deck of Cards/Travel Size Game

DOCUMENTS

• Emergency Phone Numbers
• Copies of Prescriptions
• Proof of Ownership (Rifles)
• All Vaccinations Certificates
• Passport
• Firearm Permits
• Airline Ticket
• SAP Document 520
• Copy of Your Passport (Full Color)

BEAR HUNTING GEAR LIST

Much of the hunting for bear, moose, and caribou takes hunters into low, rolling, mountainous regions with heavy brush and timber at the lower elevations. Rainy or snowy weather is common. Valley areas often have lakes, rivers, stream or swamps. Hunters need more specialized clothing. Snow and cold are possible any month of the year.
A typical day on a hunt is to walk or ride out of a spike camp into a higher piece of ground and then sit and watch for game, sometimes for hours, so layered clothing is important. Dress lighter when moving and carry a daypack with heavier clothing to keep you warm and comfortable while you are sitting and glassing for game. But be prepared for a sudden brisk hike when your quarry is sighted. Go light, but be prepared for any occasion.

Our gear suggestions include the following:
Daypack – Your daypack should have approximately 2,000 square inches of capacity. Roughly enough to stuff your coat, lunch, and survival kit into. A few extra pockets on the outside are handy for flashlights, extra batteries, maps, etc. The best packs are the top-load models, without zippers on the sides. Zippers often break, making the pack useless. Nylon is the toughest and lightest, although some fleece models work well also. Fleece tends to pick up burrs and brush. Pick what is right for your area.
Boots – Sore feet have ruined more mountainous hunts than any other single problem. If you are going to be based out of a spike camp where you can take two pairs of boots, take them. Wear a different pair of boots each day, allowing the boots to dry out for a day. While Gore-Tex-style boots work well for a few days, perspiration from your feet will eventually dampen the interior of the boot enough that it will begin to feel clammy and your feet will get cold. If your boot has a changeable liner, take extra liners and rotate them every day, drying the used pair daily. If you expect real cold, the Sorel-type boot with a heavy felt lining is your salvation. This flexibility makes it easier to control the climate in your boot, and happy feet are tough feet. Moleskin, available at all drug stores, is the answer in case of chafing or blistering.
Canteen – In drier weather, it is important to have about two quarts of water with you. In cooler weather, one quart will do. Wide mouths are best.
Hip Boots – Hip boots are a necessary evil. Because of the wet, marshy areas and high brush, hip boots are the best choice for the hunter. Since considerable walking may be necessary, specialized ankle-fit boots are best. These boots are designed a little snugger around the ankle and it makes it a lot easier to walk. Buy the boots about a half size larger and put in a polypropylene inner sole to give you a little more protection from rock bruising and additional warmth.
Rain Suits – Hunters should take rubberized rain suits on all hunts. Generally, if it rains, it really rains-often pushed along by strong winds. Since the areas can be brushy, hunters are often pushing their way through brushy regions, and there is nothing worse than wet brush! A regular rubberized suit is best for this type of hunt. A full-length jacket with a zipper or button front to provide ventilation is essential. Buy at least one size larger to accommodate layered clothing. Take rain pants, too, for maximum protection.
Gloves – Due to the inclement conditions, Gore-Tex mitts or gloves are probably the best bet for the hunter. Take three or four pairs. Also take a pair of leather mittens with fleece liners and a pair of insulated finger gloves.
Hats – A water resistant and insulated hat with warm ear flaps and visor to keep water off of your glasses. Wind is often a problem. You may be sitting for hours glassing for game. Use the hood on your rain jacket to keep water from running down your neck.
Sitting Pad – Since you will be sitting for hours, often on damp ground, it is pretty handy to have some type of pad to sit on. A small, waterproof insulating pad is a good bet. It will keep a Jacket-Midweight wool, with new miracle fleece-type fabric is generally best.
Vest – A synthetic fill vest with a collar is a small item that can save your day.
Underwear – The best underwear is a synthetic fiber. The lighter weight underwear is generally adequate on these hunts. We suggest the zip-down turtleneck. You can control the warmth of the garment and provide better venting. It is a great idea to take two pairs of long underwear.
Socks – Three pairs of heavy socks and three pairs of lightweight socks, preferably designed for anti-blistering. The socks can be washed and dried daily.
Sleeping Bags – Because of the varied, often unexpected, conditions a hunter can experience while hunting mountainous terrain, it is often better to take two lightweight sleeping bags. I prefer synthetic bags. Place one bag inside the other. The inside bag should be the mummy type, a more compact model. The outside bag can be a rectangular one that offers a little more room. Since you have two bags, you can leave the outside bag open if you encounter warmer weather. Should it get cold, zip both bags up and you can brave subzero temperatures. Since sleeping bags are bulky, hunters should obtain a compression stuff sack to help bind the bags into a smaller parcel for easier transportation.
Sleeping Pad – If space permits, a full-length pad, two inches thick, goes well under old bones. Outfitters often supply pads.
Pants – A lightweight wool or fleece model is ideal. Try to find pants with extra pockets in the legs (cargo pockets). You never have enough pockets for handkerchiefs, flashlights, etc. Take two pairs. Clothes that fit a bit loose are a good idea.
Shirts -Three lightweight shirts with long sleeves. Wool is generally best.

HAPPY HUNTING!

ARGENTINA EQUIPMENT LIST

What follows is a general guideline, and each hunter should adapt it to fit his own needs. No list will ever be all encompassing, so please think about your needs.

DOCUMENTATION:

• GUNS: They can be imported quite easily. We have the import forms. The guns are inspected on arrival. You pay a fee of around $90 US, submit the required forms and that is it. You MUST keep the forms and return them to the authorities on your departure. OR- you can usually rent shotguns and rifles for fees of from $25 to ^0 per day, plus ammo. Guns vary widely, so ask for specifics.
• Argentina has incorporated a new mandatory on-line method of payment for their Reciprocity/Immigration fee. The citizens of United States, Canada and Australia must PRE-PAY these fees on-line prior to traveling to Argentina. This was done in retaliation to the new US requirement that Argentine citizens coming here, must first travel to the Buenos Aires US embassy— and be interrogated there and then must fill out a form and pay the same fee. Argentina retaliated, although they did not force us to go to the Argentine embassy- just made us pay the same fee!

How to pay the Reciprocity Rate?

1. The traveler must log on to www.migraciones.gov.ar and click on “Pay your reciprocity rates”
2. Click on continue and you will be directed to Provincia Pagos
3. Click on “Pay Immigration rates”
4. Click on “sign-up” under the Log In section
5. Complete the form with the corresponding personal and credit card information. The information provided by the traveler and the income code is sent to the DNM online.
6. Print the payment receipt
7. Upon arrival Argentine territory, go to the DNM Office and presents the printed ticket
8. The ticket is scanned by the NMD staff; the data are validated and you are allowed to enter the country

US citizens pay $160. You then have 10 years’ worth of permission for multiple entries into Argentina
SAVE THE FORMS!
Passengers arriving in Argentina without being able to show the fee was pre-paid will NOT be able to enter Argentina and will have to return home!!

• Passport- Make Sure It Is Current through Your Return Date with Time To Spare- 6 Months.
• US CUSTOMS Form 4457- Declaration On Firearms, Cameras And Valuables. Obtain From US Customs Well In Advance Of Departure-This Is A Mandatory Document For Getting Your Guns Into Argentina And Getting Them Back Into The US!!!! MANDATORY!!!
• Drivers License, Credit Cards Etc.
• Sufficient cash for non-included expenses as per write-up of hunt- roughly $1200, plus additional funds for tips and extra animals. They require cash for extra animals-or you can make a deposit with us and we hold it against your hunt for you. Do not leave cash lying around in your room-never! Lock in your gun case or ask the lodge to safeguard it. If you prefer you can make a deposit with us of any large amounts-we can wire it to them at conclusion of your hunt.

RIFLES:

• Any weapon adequate for elk will work fine for red stag, puma etc. Suggested calibers are 7mm/08, .270, 30-06 and up to and including .7mags, .300 mags, even a .338 mag. Most stag shots will be at 50 to 200 yards, so a good 2X7, 3X9 or similar scope is suggested. Sight it dead on for 200 yards. If you intend to hunt water buffalo-they are dangerous-seriously so. Just like cape buffalo you rarely have a problem, but if they come for you it is to the finish. Therefore we think .338 Mag is the minimum-Butch saw several take up to 9 shots with .416- and never even saw them flinch!! So .375 Mag, 416 Mag; etc. Use only premium bullets. Sight in for dead on at 100 yards- shots can be from too close to 200 yards.

HARD GOODS:

• Ear Plugs: hunters get tired and snore! Ear plugs insure a good night’s sleep and also protect your ears when checking your scope on arrival. I permanently keep several sets in my shaving kit. Also, stags will keep you up with their roaring! Truly!
• A Camera- with extra battery and plenty of film- do not plan on buying it where you are going. I like a compact 35mm with the most telephoto I can find and the ability to set it down and walk over to the trophy and have it shoot on a timer automatically. I also suggest a video cam- compact DISC; 8MM or Hi 8 or digital. The new digital is interesting since you can freeze frame and print off a picture. Video of live animals always gets lots of comments from my friends.
• Bipod or Shooting Sticks. I take both. Underwood makes a nice stick- Harris a nice bipod. Get the sticks you can shoot from the standing position. For Argentina often you will need to stand to shoot over brush-so sticks must be tall enough to allow shooting from a standing position. I like a monopod by Stoney point-use it to steady my binocs; to film off of; as a walking stick; to push nasty brush out of the way and to shoot critters from! HINT: Only use a quarter twist to lock or unlock the extensions- otherwise you can break it!
• I suggest a Quality Binocular in 8 to 12 power. I like 10 myself. I like Zeiss; Steiner(great buys); Swarovski; Leupold and similar. Be weight conscious. I highly recommend the binocular behind the shoulder harnesses to take strain off your neck. Bino-Buddy is one. Avoid excessively large objective lenses- I prefer 40MM. To the big 50’s.
• A Spotting Scope by one of the same binocular manufacturers is useful, but may not always be necessary. If you are going light then do not bring it. I have not bothered with one-but several times it would have been handy-however if you are watching weight-don’t bother. Buy a lightweight in any event (30 to 38 ounces)- I prefer something with a top power of 30 or better.
• A Canteen capable of holding 1 quart of water. I like the army surplus style that are flexible rubber and you can roll them like a tube of toothpaste to avoid the sloshing noises.
• A Rifle Sling– We like the non-slip neoprene slings a lot. My favorite is by Vero Verilini.

HUNTING PACK: Normally you do two red stag hunts a day, morning from about 7AM to around 10 or 11AM (don’t worry that is plenty of time and stags quiet down by then making them tough to locate.); and then again from around 3:30 to 8 PM. So don’t take a big pack with you-not needed. I do suggest the following be place in a SMALL QUIET fanny or back pack:

1. a flashlight with an extra set of batteries and extra bulb. I like one which uses two C cells (God save me from those mini type metal flashlights- they have proven too easy to bust when twisting them on and off- I have a drawer full- selling them cheap!) The C cells last long and give good light for the weight. I like a plastic waterproof light. The new LED’s are good. Or a small couple ounce headlight works too.
2. bandaids and bandages;
3. A supply of your necessary daily medications;
4. a quality compass or GPS- just in case guide is hurt.
5. chap stick for lips and sun tan lotion
6. Sunglasses
7. Toilet paper
8. Surveyors flagging tape
9. A leatherman tool for pulling out splinters, briars, etc.
10. If you wear them-a supply of contact lens stuff and a spare pair;
11. A spare pair of eyeglasses;
12. Pair of light leather gloves;

A FANNY PACK (adequate for Argentina- provided it has straps so you can attach your rolled up jacket!) or back pack of quiet and waterproof material such as suede or fleece or wool to carry all of the above. You don’t need much here- even the knife is not needed as guide will have one. If you get a full backpack–get one with a quality padded hip belt that puts the weight on your hips. I have several big ones that I use as my carry-on piece of luggage. Then I reload into my fanny pack for the hunt. All my optical, survival and camera goods, shaving kit; plus a change of underwear and socks– goes in there when I am traveling. It is never out of my sight!
HARD METAL OR QUALITY HARD PLASTIC GUN CASE FOR AIRLINE TRAVEL WITH
LOCKS. I recently went to a Browning travel Vault- hard plastic-nearly indestructible- but it is heavy. But I do like it- it has wheels. I can pack lots of extra stuff in it too. I remove one of the two foam pads, then put my gun in a padded soft case inside the hard case and pack knives etc. in there. NO BULLETS IN THE GUN CASE– they go in your duffel.
CLOTHING:  In general on Red Stag hunts in March and April expect early temperatures to be cool- perhaps 35-45 -so a light jacket or sweater in the AM. Afternoons can be 70 to 90 degrees. NOTE: They can do a wash for you normally-so ask on arrival.

• Socks- bring at least 4 pairs. No need for wool here- its warm-socks that breathe are best.
• Gloves– One pair of light leather shooting gloves for brambles. If you are dove shooting bring at least three pairs!
• Underwear: I like the cool-max skivvies- 2-3 sets.
• Pants- I like camo jeans or cotton camo pants down there. Two pair. There are enough brambles and sharp stuff to need a pair of pants tough enough to deflect at least a majority of that stuff. Try to keep to fairly quiet materials—stalks can be in close quarters! A pair of camo bird pants with leather (not noisy canvas) fronts for leg protection would work. Forget using chamois, flannel, light cotton-your legs will get chewed up.
• Coat– I take a light Gore-Tex camo suede parka which I can layer underneath with sweaters or sweatshirts. Usually I only wear the jacket an hour or so in AM. Make sure the parka has a soft outside material that will not make rustling and rubbing noises when you walk or crawl. Almost quiet is not good enough! I like the suede type fabrics or the new MT 050 fabric. Fleece coats eat and hold too many burrs for my taste as an outer garment. Also be sure your back pack or fanny pack is equipped with straps large enough to hold your coat behind you if it gets warm or you are exerting yourself. Test it to make sure it will fit and stay put on your pack, even when crawling! And make sure all the stitching on the pack is solid.
• Hats: Take two- breathable caps- if one gets sweaty switch. I like a baseball cap or a Stetson/Aussie type-sun is hot and can burn you. Camo colors- no blaze orange-not required and you will rarely ever see anyone but your guide!
• Sweater: I like the camo colored wind stopper wool zip or button open style that lets it breathe. If you can’t open it up to vent it will wear you out with excess heat and energy drain. Or as a substitute take a camo sweat shirt with foam or fleece lining, to use as either an outer or under garment. It gives me much flexibility in clothing selection for a day.
• Shirts: I have grown to love fleece in a shirt. Very lightweight fleece though- or lightweight cotton camo. Bring two or three-it breathes well, has good heat retention under another layer, and is comfortable as well. I especially like the micro fleece in a LIGHT weight shirt; cotton camo is fine as temperatures are mild-equivalent to September in Northern US. You should bring some long sleeve camo t-shirts as it can get very warm!
• BOOTS: Lightweight boots that breathe. Sneakers will do for a backup. I have used 6” walking boots. Fine. There is almost no water, terrain in relatively flat, footing is good. Waterproof is nice just in case of rain, but very unlikely to be needed. Two pairs-I wear one on plane, pack other set in gun case. Try to equalize weight in gun case and duffel bag to save excess luggage charges.

DUFFEL BAGS: With new luggage restrictions I actually go the store with a scale- tough to find anything with wheels for under 7 pounds! LL Bean has a few. Again- buy good stuff-I have seen a duffel explode when a heavy bag is thrown on top of it by luggage carriers.
SLEEPING BAG– NONE. Bedding supplied. Maid service too. Laundry often can be arranged on request.
MISCELLANEOUS:
Moleskin for blisters with an antiseptic ointment;
Extra boot laces;
Slippers for night bathroom calls or for the shower;
An anti-diarrheal and maybe some Ex-Lax;
Aleve or aspirin;
Lip balm
Bathroom items- They do supply towels, soap etc. Each room sleeps two guys with your own bath and shower.
BRING ALONG A GREAT SENSE OF HUMOR- THIS IS NOT HOME!! THINGS HAPPEN-BE PATIENT!
BUT if the outfitter is not doing right by you- then face them and make them fix it, if they can. better that than staying unhappy and keeping your mouth shut and guaranteeing a poor hunt! We try hard to find quality outfitters, but things can go awry- so speak up firmly but nicely. They want you happy!!
If need be email or call us before leaving!! And if the scheduling does not suit you- discuss it with them-these folks are Some of the most willing people you will ever meet. You will really enjoy them-this is one awesome hunt! But it is rare to have any issues on our argentine hunts!
Get in reasonable shape– hike; bike; swim whatever. Just do it! Expect to walk 1 to 2 miles in the morning-same in the afternoon. If it gets to be too much-ask to be in a blind over a waterhole-and then bring your video- I saw over 300 animals one hot afternoon. I think blinds are best in late day. Low exertion overall!! I call it a 3 to 4 on a scale of 10.
Practice off hand snap shots; practice kneeling and sitting and practice shooting off the shooting sticks in the standing position!! If you wound an animal- you will have to pay for it—so practice and then practice some more!! I promise it will pay off!
Archers: practice and practice. We have had a number archers go down on this hunt, and i have taken stag myself with bow there. It appears best results are from blinds set up in travel corridors or around water holes. They will even build you a blind. You should try the spot and stalk-fun but tough to get close enough-just like elk hunting. In fact bring elk type equipment.
I am sure that no matter how many times I make out this list and review it, I will omit one thing you would have liked. So use your own common sense as well as relying on my list. And feel free to make suggestions- we want everyone as well prepared as possible.
FINAL THOUGHTS: We can arrange all kinds of sightseeing, tango shows, cruises, shopping tours, museums etc in Buenos Aires-just ask. Allow a couple days on the front end of your trip-you will find it worthwhile. We also suggest some superb 5 star hotels and restaurants. Argentine wine and beef is the best! There are superb bargains on leather type goods in BA- custom made leather jackets can be under $150! Shoes, soft boots, leather cases-all are bargains!

HAPPY HUNTING!!