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We at Hunt Nation are avid hunters and fisherman and over the years we’ve compiled a ton of gear lists for all of the various locations throughout the world we send a client to. Every serious hunter and fisherman quickly learns that having the right gear and outdoor equipment can make the difference between a successful hunting or fishing trip and a complete and utter disaster. The type of gear required will be largely dependent upon what type of environment that you will be in and the species sought after. Of course, these lists are only our suggestions and are meant as a checklist for you to utilize as you see fit. The outfitter for your adventure may have additional gear lists which you should request or we can do that on your behalf.
Click on the link for each gear list below. Once the Gear List comes up, you can print the list to use and check off before your next adventure.
Hunting Gearlist
Each season I am asked by many hunters which brand or type of a certain item I recommend. As with anything, it is important to buy the highest quality equipment that you can afford. This eliminates having to purchase that item again or more often than you would like. I also strongly recommend buying items of minimal weight. This cuts back on fatigue while in the field, allowing you to go that extra mile.
Binoculars – If you are to own one set of binoculars, the 10X42 would be the best all-around size. Binocular sizes that work well for open country hunts (such as coues, mule deer, antelope, bear, sheep) would be: 10X42, 12X50 or 15X56. For forest hunts (such as archery elk and turkey): 8X30, 10X32, or 10X42. Swarovski, and Leica are superior European glasses that bring in much light and detail. I highly recommend them. If you don’t want to spend $1200-$3200 on a pair of these fine European optics, the higher end models of Vortex are great binoculars.
Riflescope – European optics companies produce great binoculars, but my recommended riflescope is the Great Ol’ American brand Leupold. The reason is due to their ability to take a beating! I have seen Leupolds take a tumble down a mountain, end-over-end, after which the hunter picks up the weapon to kill an animal at nearly 500 yards! These are tough scopes and will usually not lose zero with a bad mishap. I have witnessed this event with every other brand, even the $2500 European scopes, and cannot say the same for them. Variable power settings are a must. A 4-12X is minimum. A 3-9X is only good for javelina, cow or muzzleloader hunts when shooting distance are typically closer than 250 yards, but it is too small for big canyon hunting of any other species. If you have ever looked at an animal over 250 yards on 9 power, you know what I mean. Leupold Model Vari-X III in 6.5-20X or 4.5-14X will suit your needs for any species at any distance. If you are coming on a bighorn sheep, coues or bear hunt, go with a 40mm objective to save weight in this rougher terrain.
Bipod – It is highly recommended that you mount a bipod on your rifle. Don’t skimp and buy an “off the wall” brand thinking they are all the same. I have used most bipods on the market. Most cheap brands come apart after a few uses in the rugged mountains or are designed poorly causing wobble.
Sleeping Bag -Sleeping bags come in all shapes and sizes but what is important is the thermal rating and compactness (packing in your luggage for the plane). Cold month hunts in November through April may be spent in wall tents. Outside nighttime temperatures may get as low as 10 degrees, with inside tent temperatures around 50 with the heater on. If the heater goes out in the middle of the night (and it more than likely will), you need to be prepared. I recommend a 20 degree rating for those cold weather hunts. During mild weather hunts in August through October, I recommend a 40-50 degree rating. Slumberjack, Eureka, and REI have a line of compact sleeping bags at various temperature ratings that fit nicely into your luggage. Also, don’t forget a small travel pillow or Coleman camp pillow. These stuff into a sack to save room for luggage packing.
Beanie – A beanie is great for keeping your head warm while sleeping during cold weather hunts. It eliminates the need to bury your head under your sleeping bag and it actually keeps your whole body warmer while sleeping.
Tweezers – Every plant in the desert can either poke, stick or jab you, often leaving stickers and thorns throughout your body. Tweezers are essential in getting these thorns out if they happen to occur, especially the fine cactus needles. It seems like the most favorable activity for our hunters during downtime is to sit around camp and pull out thorns…
Blisters – For those who are prone to blisters, mole skin is a great remedy. Also, the small pads for corns and callous by Dr. Scholl’s work well around blisters too. There are also gel-type blister bandages on the market. Many hunters have quit hunting or gone home early because of severe blisters.
Daypack – Most hunters come with packs too small…. One reason to have a good-sized pack is to handle all the layers of clothing that you will be peeling off during the day. Remember that mornings are often 35-40 degrees cooler than noontime temps, which means you will be layering. Another reason to have a decent pack is that, if you tag an animal, you will need to take the guide’s gear in your pack (and they have a lot of stuff) as he packs out the game. If it is a large animal such as a bear or elk, you will need to help pack out the game. You do not need a giant backpack, but a good daypack with a waste strap for putting the weight above the hips and not all on the shoulders is best. You should have a mid-sized pack with a capacity around 2000 – 3000cu-in.
Water Transport – As many as three-hundred people die in the desert per year due to severe dehydration. Having enough water in your pack is very important in this arid environment, especially after the kill. Once you kill, you just doubled or even tripled your water requirement in order to help pack out the extra weight. THIS IS THE DESERT! There are no streams to drink from if you are out of water. If coming during our August through October hunts, two liters should be taken into the field at all times, even if you don’t think you need it. I don’t mean two little drinking water bottles that you buy in the case, but two LITERS. Camelback, Platypus, or Dromedary Bladders work well, but make sure you rinse out the bad, plastic taste from newly purchased bladders. The humidity in Arizona and Southern New Mexico is typically 5%, which can dry you out in minutes! Some don’t even know they are dehydrated until it’s too late. If you are worried about the added weight of water, try to shave off a few pounds elsewhere.
Hiking Boots – Most AZ and NM terrain is very rocky. Get a boot with good ankle support and deep traction lugs.
Hiking Socks – A good pair of wool blend socks, whether hunting in the hot month of September or the cold of January, is essential to keeping your feet from being too moist and helps to eliminate blisters. Please, for the sake of the other hunters in your tent, bring one pair per day!</p
Walking Stick or Trekking Pole – A walking stick or trekking pole will help to stabilize you on the loose ground or steep slopes. Most models are compact, lightweight and telescopic, folding down to around 25″. Make sure to use the rubber tip, as the metal tip clanking on the ground scares game on a regular basis. Some hiking sticks have a V-yoke to act as a shooting stick. This can be a very useful tool when getting a “surprise” offhand shot.
Clothing – There are many brands on the market, but what is important is the material they are made of. High performance hunting clothing is not 100% Cotton. Try a polyester/cotton blend or, better yet, a 100% poly material.
Camouflage Pattern – The Camo pattern to bring depends upon which type of hunt you will be on; either a desert hunt or a forest hunt. Desert hunts such as bighorn sheep, bear, deer, javelina, and antelope require lighter camo patterns like Natural Gear, Mossy Oak Brush, King’s Desert Shadow, or Sitka Gear’s Optifade Open Country. Most colors in the desert during hunting season are light shades of gray/brown. Stay away from the really bright “prairie” patterns though. You’ll stand out like a sore thumb using the prairie patterns. Forest hunts such as Elk and Turkey require darker camo patterns like Mossy Oak New Break-Up or Real Tree AP and even Kuiu Verde.
Portable Field Seat Cushion – This may not sound too important, but when you are glassing and sitting on a cold, jagged boulder for hours, it is invaluable. The comfort a foam pad brings will help you be more patient. Make sure it is not too big or it will be cumbersome to carry in or on your pack. Try Hunter’s Specialties Bunsaver brand. Don’t bring a field chair unless you don’t mind carrying the added weight or bulk.
12-Volt Vehicle Cell Phone Charger – If you really need to use and re-charge your cell during the hunt, please bring a 12-volt vehicle cell phone charger (cigarette lighter plug). The guides will let you plug into their vehicle when you need charging. I recommend turning off your cell phone until you need to make a call. We don’t hunt near towers and typically have poor reception. If you keep the phone on during the daytime, it will search for a tower, thus, drain your battery within hours. Note: some areas we hunt have no cell phone service. The Gila National Forest has no service. If hunting in NM and contact with the outside world is important to you, I recommend renting a satellite phone for your personal use.
Rifle Caliber Selection – Basically, choose a caliber that you can handle and shoot accurately without flinching. If that means getting a muzzlebrake installed, than that is what you need to do. We all know hunters that use big magnums, but miss everything they shoot at because they flinch and are afraid of the gun. Again, a muzzlebrake will do wonders! For hunters that like to use different calibers for different species, here is a range of calibers to use for each species: Javelina – .243, up to .30-06; Coues and Mule Deer, Sheep, Antelope – .25-06 up to .300 Magnum; Bull Elk and Bear- 7mm Magnum up to .338 Magnum. If I were use one cartridge for all rifle hunting, it would be either one of the .300 Magnums or Short Magnums. These cartridges can be loaded and used for all North American big game species from a 45 pound javelina to a 2500 pound bull bison. They are also superior for long range shooting in high winds across canyons. Another important point that I must mention is that you should have a weapon that is as lightweight as possible. Rifles with heavy varmint or target barrels might be nice from a bench or while prairie dog shooting, but the mountains of the Southwest are no place for a heavy gun!
Ammunition – Just like anything, don’t buy the cheapest ammo. Good loaded rifle ammo usually costs over $50.00 per box. The more expensive Federal Premiums, Remington Premier or Winchester Supreme loaded ammunitions are very accurate and precise. I recommend a bullet with a high ballistic coefficient. More than likely, you will not get any close shots in this open country anyway! Important: sight in with the ammo you will be using on the hunt. I see many hunters buy a cheap box of ammo to sight in their gun and use a totally different load on the hunt. All ammo shoots differently and is magnified at long ranges.
Bullet Weight – You want to get the best trajectory and energy transfer for the cartridge you are shooting, which often means choosing the correct bullet weight. Flat trajectory is very important in this open country. For instance, you wouldn’t want to hunt open country elk using a .30-06 loaded with 200 grain bullets. It seems logical to use as heavy a bullet as possible on a big animal, but it doesn’t work that way with long range hunting. The 200gr .30-06 bullet might have high energy coming out of the muzzle, but it will have terrible trajectory at long distance, unlike a flatter shooting 165 grain .30-06 bullet would. If you look at the charts of the offered bullet weights for a particular cartridge, the middle weight will more than likely give you the best trajectory and knockdown power at long range. The key is performance at long range. For instance: a .243 should get the best long range performance with a 90gr bullet, a .270 should get the best long range performance with a 130-140gr, a 7mm Magnum should get the best long range performance with a 150gr, a .30-06 should get the best long range performance with a 165gr, a .300 Winchester Magnum or .300 Short Magnums should get the best performance with a 165gr, a .300 Remington Ultra Magnum should get the best long range performance with a 180gr, a .325 Magnum should get the best long range performance with a 200gr, and a .338 Magnum should get the best long range performance with a 225gr. If you cannot find these weights, then go lighter.
Weight of Gear – I strongly urge big game hunters to bring field items that are LIGHTWEIGHT, without compromising quality of course. If you can save a few ounces on each item, it can add up to pounds and will be felt (or not felt) at the end of the day. Bringing items into the field like: rifles with varmint barrels or heavy wooden stocks, big spotting scopes, big tripods, field chairs, sand bags, video cameras, big SLR cameras with telephoto lenses, sidearms, multiple boxes of ammo, chair or stool, giant Rambo knives, etc., is a common mistake. Also, after the first hike, you will figure out that there are things in your pack that you don’t need. Unfortunately, it always takes that first hike for people to figure this out. If there is anything in your pack that you don’t really need (within reason), then leave it behind. Saving weight reduces fatigue while in the field, allowing you to go that extra mile, thus, increasing your odds of harvesting a real trophy and having a more enjoyable hunt!
Temperature/Weather – The climate in Arizona and New Mexico is very arid and dry with the humidity often being around 5%. There is nothing to hold in the heat. This means the fluctuation between morning and afternoon temps could be drastic. Morning temps, as a general rule, are usually 35-40 degrees different from afternoon temps. That means if it is 65 degrees as a daytime high, the nighttime low will usually drop to about 25 or 30. The sun is intense during the day, but once the sun goes down, it could get quite bone chilling and happen very quickly. Therefore, we recommend layering. Also, the wind will typically blow about 10-30mph for at least half of your hunt, so expect temps to feel cooler than they really are. Rain and snow are not normal, but could happen on your hunt.
CLOTHING
TOILETRIES/FIRST AID
OPTICS/ELECTRONICS
MISCELLANEOUS
OPTIONAL
EQUIPMENT
Hunting Gearlist
Base Pack
Shelter & Sleeping
Cooking & Drinking
Packed Clothes
Personal/Hygene
Safety & Essentials
Kill Kit
Electronics
Hunting Gear
Clothing
Optics
Bow
HAPPY HUNTING!
Hunting Gearlist
Each season I am asked by many hunters which brand or type of a certain item I recommend. As with anything, it is important to buy the highest quality equipment that you can afford. This eliminates having to purchase that item again or more often than you would like. I also strongly recommend buying items of minimal weight. This cuts back on fatigue while in the field, allowing you to go that extra mile.
Binoculars – If you are to own one set of binoculars, the 10X42 would be the best all-around size. Binocular sizes that work well for open country hunts (such as coues, mule deer, antelope, bear, sheep) would be: 10X42, 12X50 or 15X56. For forest hunts (such as archery elk and turkey): 8X30, 10X32, or 10X42. Swarovski, and Leica are superior European glasses that bring in much light and detail. I highly recommend them. If you don’t want to spend $1200-$3200 on a pair of these fine European optics, the higher end models of Vortex are great binoculars.
Bipod – It is highly recommended that you mount a bipod on your rifle. Don’t skimp and buy an “off the wall” brand thinking they are all the same. I have used most bipods on the market. Most cheap brands come apart after a few uses in the rugged mountains or are designed poorly causing wobble.
Sleeping Bag -Sleeping bags come in all shapes and sizes but what is important is the thermal rating and compactness (packing in your luggage for the plane). Cold month hunts in November through April may be spent in wall tents. Outside nighttime temperatures may get as low as 10 degrees, with inside tent temperatures around 50 with the heater on. If the heater goes out in the middle of the night (and it more than likely will), you need to be prepared. I recommend a 20 degree rating for those cold weather hunts. During mild weather hunts, I recommend a 40-50 degree rating. Slumberjack, Eureka, and REI have a line of compact sleeping bags at various temperature ratings that fit nicely into your luggage. Also, don’t forget a small travel pillow or Coleman camp pillow. These stuff into a sack to save room for luggage packing.
Beanie – A beanie is great for keeping your head warm while sleeping during cold weather hunts. It eliminates the need to bury your head under your sleeping bag and it actually keeps your whole body warmer while sleeping.
Tweezers – Every plant in the desert can either poke, stick or jab you, often leaving stickers and thorns throughout your body. Tweezers are essential in getting these thorns out if they happen to occur, especially the fine cactus needles. It seems like the most favorable activity for our hunters during downtime is to sit around camp and pull out thorns…
Blisters – For those who are prone to blisters, mole skin is a great remedy. Also, the small pads for corns and callous by Dr. Scholl’s work well around blisters too. There are also gel-type blister bandages on the market. Many hunters have quit hunting or gone home early because of severe blisters.
Daypack – Most hunters come with packs too small…. One reason to have a good-sized pack is to handle all the layers of clothing that you will be peeling off during the day. Remember that mornings are often 35-40 degrees cooler than noontime temps, which means you will be layering. Another reason to have a decent pack is that, if you tag an animal, you will need to take the guide’s gear in your pack (and they have a lot of stuff) as he packs out the game. If it is a large animal such as a bear or elk, you will need to help pack out the game. You do not need a giant backpack, but a good daypack with a waste strap for putting the weight above the hips and not all on the shoulders is best. You should have a mid-sized pack with a capacity around 2000 – 3000cu-in.
Water Transport – As many as three-hundred people die in the desert per year due to severe dehydration. Having enough water in your pack is very important in this arid environment, especially after the kill. Once you kill, you just doubled or even tripled your water requirement in order to help pack out the extra weight.
Hiking Boots – Get a boot with good ankle support and deep traction lugs.
Hiking Socks – A good pair of wool blend socks is essential to keeping your feet from being too moist and helps to eliminate blisters. Please, for the sake of the other hunters in your tent, bring one pair per day!
Walking Stick or Trekking Pole – A walking stick or trekking pole will help to stabilize you on the loose ground or steep slopes. Most models are compact, lightweight and telescopic, folding down to around 25″. Make sure to use the rubber tip, as the metal tip clanking on the ground scares game on a regular basis. Some hiking sticks have a V-yoke to act as a shooting stick. This can be a very useful tool when getting a “surprise” offhand shot.
Clothing – There are many brands on the market, but what is important is the material they are made of. High performance hunting clothing is not 100% Cotton. Try a polyester/cotton blend or, better yet, a 100% poly material.
Camouflage Pattern – The Camo pattern to bring depends upon which type of hunt you will be on; either a desert hunt or a forest hunt. Desert hunts such as bighorn sheep, bear, deer, javelina, and antelope require lighter camo patterns like Natural Gear, Mossy Oak Brush, King’s Desert Shadow, or Sitka Gear’s Optifade Open Country. Most colors in the desert during hunting season are light shades of gray/brown. Stay away from the really bright “prairie” patterns though. You’ll stand out like a sore thumb using the prairie patterns. Forest hunts such as Elk and Turkey require darker camo patterns like Mossy Oak New Break-Up or Real Tree AP and even Kuiu Verde.
Portable Field Seat Cushion – This may not sound too important, but when you are glassing and sitting on a cold, jagged boulder for hours, it is invaluable. The comfort a foam pad brings will help you be more patient. Make sure it is not too big or it will be cumbersome to carry in or on your pack. Don’t bring a field chair unless you don’t mind carrying the added weight or bulk.
12-Volt Vehicle Cell Phone Charger – If you really need to use and re-charge your cell during the hunt, bring a 12-volt vehicle cell phone charger (cigarette lighter plug). The guides may let you plug into their vehicle when you need charging. I recommend turning off your cell phone until you need to make a call. If you keep the phone on during the daytime, it will search for a tower, thus, drain your battery within hours.
Weight of Gear – I strongly urge big game hunters to bring field items that are LIGHTWEIGHT, without compromising quality of course. If you can save a few ounces on each item, it can add up to pounds and will be felt (or not felt) at the end of the day. Bringing items into the field like: rifles with varmint barrels or heavy wooden stocks, big spotting scopes, big tripods, field chairs, sand bags, video cameras, big SLR cameras with telephoto lenses, giant Rambo knives, etc., is a common mistake. Also, after the first hike, you will figure out that there are things in your pack that you don’t need. Unfortunately, it always takes that first hike for people to figure this out. If there is anything in your pack that you don’t really need (within reason), then leave it behind. Saving weight reduces fatigue while in the field, allowing you to go that extra mile, thus, increasing your odds of harvesting a real trophy and having a more enjoyable hunt!
CLOTHING
ARCHERY GEAR
OPTICS/ELECTRONICS
EQUIPMENT
TOILETRIES/FIRST AID
MISCELLANEOUS
OPTIONAL
]]>
Hunting Gearlist
| Preparation: | |||||||||||
| Acquire Landowner’s Permission | Mend any Torn Blinds | Set Blind | |||||||||
| Buy Landowner Gift (Gander Mtn. Gift Card) | Organize/Pack | Sharpen Knife/Broadheads | |||||||||
| Buy License | Practice Calling | Sight/Tune/Pattern/Test/Practice | |||||||||
| Check all Batteries | Read Local Rules, Regulations, | Update Electronics | |||||||||
| Restrictions, Limits etc. | (Charts/Maps/Locators) | ||||||||||
| Clean Binoculars/Scope | Read/Watch Instructional | ||||||||||
| Books and Videos | |||||||||||
| Clean Firearm | Scouting/Game Cameras/Food Plotting | ||||||||||
| Archery Specific Equipment: | |||||||||||
| Arm Guard | Broadheads | Replacement Nocks | |||||||||
| Arrows | Field Points | Rest | |||||||||
| Bag/Block/3D Targets | Gloves – Release/Finger Tab | Sight | |||||||||
| Bow | Kisser Button | Sound Dampeners | |||||||||
| Bow Case (Hard/Soft) | Quiver | Stabilizer | |||||||||
| Broadhead Sharpener/Replacement Blades | Release | Wrist Sling | |||||||||
| General Hunting Equipment: | |||||||||||
| Ammunition | Cleaning Kit/Oil/Oil Cloth | Range Finder | |||||||||
| Back Pack/Waist Pack | Cameras/Batteries/Memory Cards | Rifle/Shotgun/Muzzleloader | |||||||||
| Blind Bag | Game Ear (Amplifier/Wireless Com.) | Scope with Caps | |||||||||
| Camo Face Paint | Ground Blind/Blind Material | Shooting Stick | |||||||||
| Camo Tape | Gun Case (Hard/Soft) | Spotting Scope | |||||||||
| Clothing: | |||||||||||
| Baseball Hat – Camo | Ghillie Suit | Shirt – Camo Short-Sleeved | |||||||||
| Belt – Camo | Jacket – Camo Windproof/Pullover | Socks – Breathable and Insulated | |||||||||
| Boots – Insulated/Un-Insulated | Long Underwear | Socks – Liner | |||||||||
| Depending on Weather Conditions | Insulated/Moisture Wicking | ||||||||||
| Boots – Waterproof/Snakeproof | Pants – Camo | Stocking Hat – Camo | |||||||||
| Facemask – Camo | Rain Suit | Turkey Vest | |||||||||
| Gloves – Insulated/Un-Insulated | Shirt – Camo Long-Sleeved | ||||||||||
| Depending on Weather Conditions | |||||||||||
| General Accessories: | |||||||||||
| 2-Way Radios | GPS/Map/Personal Locator | Safety/Shooting Glasses | |||||||||
| Batteries | Hand Sanitizer | Seat/Stool (Bucket/Cushion) | |||||||||
| Binocular Harness | Hand Warmers | Sunglasses and Case | |||||||||
| Binoculars | Hearing Protection | Sunglasses Leash | |||||||||
| Bug Spray/Insect Repellant Device | High Energy Food/Snacks | Sunscreen | |||||||||
| Camera | Hydration Pack | Toilet Paper/Paper Towels | |||||||||
| Compass | Ice | Trail Marking Tape/Tacks | |||||||||
| Cooler | Identification | Water | |||||||||
| First-Aid Kit | Knife Sharpener | Waterproof Stuff Sack | |||||||||
| Flares | Knife/Multi-Tool | Wind Indicator | |||||||||
| Flashlight/Headlamp | Lighter/Matches with Case | ||||||||||
| Glass/Lens Cleaner | Rope (50 ft.) | ||||||||||
| Calls: | |||||||||||
| Box Call | Diaphragm Calls | Push-Button Call | |||||||||
| Box Call Chalk | Gobble Call | Sandpaper | |||||||||
| Box Call Holder and Silencer | Locator Call (Crow/Owl) | Scotch-Brite Pad | |||||||||
| Call Lanyard | Mouth Calls | Slate/Glass/Ceramic/ | |||||||||
| Aluminum Pot/Peg Calls | |||||||||||
| Decoys: | |||||||||||
| Hen | Jake | Gobbler | |||||||||
| After the Shot: | |||||||||||
| Freezer Paper and Tape | Plastic Bags | String for License/Zip Ties | |||||||||
| Gutting Gloves (Wrist/Shoulder Length) | Processing Kit/Knives | ||||||||||
Hunting Gearlist
PACK LIGHT – BUT BE THOROUGH! You will probably be using your backpack as your luggage on the commercial flights. It will need to be checked- make sure it is labeled with your name, phone, email and address. If lost, you will need to be able to recover it, hopefully. Note: When you check your back pack we strongly advise that you put your backpack into a protective cover or bag. Loose straps could get caught on airline conveyor belt resulting in total failure of the pack. We like to take a second small carry-on day pack- 1500 to 2500 cubic inches. We keep cameras, rangefinders, binoculars, passport, critical medical needs and similar indispensables with us – not in checked luggage. NO KNIVES PLEASE in carry-ons! Check on all your flights to see what are the size limits for carry-ons – it varies widely!
THE LIST BELOW IS OF TOP NOTCH PREMIUM BRANDS- OTHERS WILL WORK TOO!
The equipment listed below will cost a small fortune to buy all at once –many substitutes will work- if in doubt- ask us or your outfitter!! We have put together the IDEAL equipment, less will work with care in choices.
This information will help you prepare for your hunt. It is a must that you practice and thoroughly know your weapon and accessories. Spend much time practicing during the year and know your weapon limitations as well as your own.
Spend time with you pack fully loaded- break it in so it fits. Solve problems now, not on top of windy mountain!
Remember to keep the 40 -50 pound weight limit. Outfitters will weigh your gear and pull gear out as needed to meet the pound limitations. Streamlined, tough, tested and proven – and light weight are the key words here. You may use small aircraft, rubber rafts, horses and your legs to get into hunting grounds. Space is extremely limited and weight is a huge concern. We suggest talking to and going over this list in detail with your outfitter – well before your hunt. If you come from low elevations and you think you might have altitude problems, Butch suggests you get a prescription for Diamox from your Doctor, and start it a couple days pre-hunt. It could prevent a serious problem!!
When you arrive you must be 100% packed, ready to grab your gear and go straight into the field right then if need be, so plan according. Good flying days are precious!! Have your gear and personal affairs in order well before hand — and be in the top physical condition of your life. Weight train for strength and cross train for cardio—— it is a must prior to your hunt! If you have questions please call ASAP, so you can get them resolved NOW!
To hunt good trophies is admirable; but to have an unrealistic ego problem is something else. This is hunting, not buying animals off the shelf. If you take an observer, expect to lose some opportunities. If you share a guide, you may lose some opportunities, but you might save some money and it might bring you happiness to be with your friend. We do not want your friend to suddenly become your enemy and ruin everybody’s hunt. Hunting is an adventure in the unknown. If you want to hunt and to be pleasant, we have a place for you. If not, don’t come. If booze makes you mean, leave it behind. If you are not tough, don’t book a tough hunt.
BRING ALONG A GREAT SENSE OF HUMOR- THIS IS NOT HOME!! THINGS HAPPEN-BE PATIENT!
BUT if the outfitter is not doing right by you- then face them and make them fix it, if they can. Better that than staying unhappy and keeping your mouth shut and guaranteeing a poor hunt! We try hard to find quality outfitters, but things can go awry- so speak up firmly but nicely. They want you happy!!
Hunting Gearlist
Much of the hunting for bear, moose, and caribou takes hunters into low, rolling, mountainous regions with heavy brush and timber at the lower elevations. Rainy or snowy weather is common. Valley areas often have lakes, rivers, stream or swamps. Hunters need more specialized clothing. Snow and cold are possible any month of the year.
A typical day on a hunt is to walk or ride out of a spike camp into a higher piece of ground and then sit and watch for game, sometimes for hours, so layered clothing is important. Dress lighter when moving and carry a daypack with heavier clothing to keep you warm and comfortable while you are sitting and glassing for game. But be prepared for a sudden brisk hike when your quarry is sighted. Go light, but be prepared for any occasion.
Our gear suggestions include the following:
Daypack – Your daypack should have approximately 2,000 square inches of capacity. Roughly enough to stuff your coat, lunch, and survival kit into. A few extra pockets on the outside are handy for flashlights, extra batteries, maps, etc. The best packs are the top-load models, without zippers on the sides. Zippers often break, making the pack useless. Nylon is the toughest and lightest, although some fleece models work well also. Fleece tends to pick up burrs and brush. Pick what is right for your area.
Boots – Sore feet have ruined more mountainous hunts than any other single problem. If you are going to be based out of a spike camp where you can take two pairs of boots, take them. Wear a different pair of boots each day, allowing the boots to dry out for a day. While Gore-Tex-style boots work well for a few days, perspiration from your feet will eventually dampen the interior of the boot enough that it will begin to feel clammy and your feet will get cold. If your boot has a changeable liner, take extra liners and rotate them every day, drying the used pair daily. If you expect real cold, the Sorel-type boot with a heavy felt lining is your salvation. This flexibility makes it easier to control the climate in your boot, and happy feet are tough feet. Moleskin, available at all drug stores, is the answer in case of chafing or blistering.
Canteen – In drier weather, it is important to have about two quarts of water with you. In cooler weather, one quart will do. Wide mouths are best.
Hip Boots – Hip boots are a necessary evil. Because of the wet, marshy areas and high brush, hip boots are the best choice for the hunter. Since considerable walking may be necessary, specialized ankle-fit boots are best. These boots are designed a little snugger around the ankle and it makes it a lot easier to walk. Buy the boots about a half size larger and put in a polypropylene inner sole to give you a little more protection from rock bruising and additional warmth.
Rain Suits – Hunters should take rubberized rain suits on all hunts. Generally, if it rains, it really rains-often pushed along by strong winds. Since the areas can be brushy, hunters are often pushing their way through brushy regions, and there is nothing worse than wet brush! A regular rubberized suit is best for this type of hunt. A full-length jacket with a zipper or button front to provide ventilation is essential. Buy at least one size larger to accommodate layered clothing. Take rain pants, too, for maximum protection.
Gloves – Due to the inclement conditions, Gore-Tex mitts or gloves are probably the best bet for the hunter. Take three or four pairs. Also take a pair of leather mittens with fleece liners and a pair of insulated finger gloves.
Hats – A water resistant and insulated hat with warm ear flaps and visor to keep water off of your glasses. Wind is often a problem. You may be sitting for hours glassing for game. Use the hood on your rain jacket to keep water from running down your neck.
Sitting Pad – Since you will be sitting for hours, often on damp ground, it is pretty handy to have some type of pad to sit on. A small, waterproof insulating pad is a good bet. It will keep a Jacket-Midweight wool, with new miracle fleece-type fabric is generally best.
Vest – A synthetic fill vest with a collar is a small item that can save your day.
Underwear – The best underwear is a synthetic fiber. The lighter weight underwear is generally adequate on these hunts. We suggest the zip-down turtleneck. You can control the warmth of the garment and provide better venting. It is a great idea to take two pairs of long underwear.
Socks – Three pairs of heavy socks and three pairs of lightweight socks, preferably designed for anti-blistering. The socks can be washed and dried daily.
Sleeping Bags – Because of the varied, often unexpected, conditions a hunter can experience while hunting mountainous terrain, it is often better to take two lightweight sleeping bags. I prefer synthetic bags. Place one bag inside the other. The inside bag should be the mummy type, a more compact model. The outside bag can be a rectangular one that offers a little more room. Since you have two bags, you can leave the outside bag open if you encounter warmer weather. Should it get cold, zip both bags up and you can brave subzero temperatures. Since sleeping bags are bulky, hunters should obtain a compression stuff sack to help bind the bags into a smaller parcel for easier transportation.
Sleeping Pad – If space permits, a full-length pad, two inches thick, goes well under old bones. Outfitters often supply pads.
Pants – A lightweight wool or fleece model is ideal. Try to find pants with extra pockets in the legs (cargo pockets). You never have enough pockets for handkerchiefs, flashlights, etc. Take two pairs. Clothes that fit a bit loose are a good idea.
Shirts -Three lightweight shirts with long sleeves. Wool is generally best.
CLOTHING/APPAREL
OPTICS/ELECTRONICS
EQUIPMENT
TOILETRIES/FIRST AID
OPTIONAL
Hunting Gearlist
Having hunted Africa a number of times, we have some firm ideas of what equipment you need to have with you to hunt the Dark Continent. Please realize that conditions across Africa can vary widely, from highlands to lowlands; from thick bush to open savannah; from desert to swamp. Temperatures vary widely from frost to over 100 degrees, so this list is a rough guide ONLY.
Some of the things suggested you may not need; and you may need some not suggested. A typical plains game hunt differs from say- a cape buffalo hunt in a swampy area of Mozambique. What follows are general suggestions for your upcoming hunt. No list can cover every possible combination of weather or circumstance, but this will help you.
Adjust the list for your time of year and species, and style of African hunt. If you are climbing in sharp rock on kopjes (hills)—then a rugged boot sole with good ankle protections is needed. If doing leopard from a blind, super quiet clothing in black or very dark camo is needed. Call us for any assistance. Generally, bear in mind you need to adjust this list for anything unusual in the way of weather (eg-extreme heat or rain conditions) –or in the type of hunt. If in doubt ask!!!! We have been there and we have done it!! So please use our expertise!
In order to import your guns into So. Africa- you need permission (a permit). We strongly urge anyone traveling to Africa or going thru So. Africa to speak with us and get our advice.
DOCUMENTATION:
TRAVEL WITH SPORTING WEAPONS
SHOTS/VACCINATIONS: Talk to your personal physician well in advance of leaving. He will need to know where in Africa you are going. Do some research. Some of the anti malaria meds have wicked side effects on some people- severe hallucinatory effects that can be dangerous or debilitating! Most of the plains game hunts are malaria free areas- but check with your DOC!
Malaria – What is it?
Many areas of Africa are Malaria free- others are not- check with your doctor- if a writeup says malaria free- it is not a guarantee- be prudent and talk to a medical pro.
SUGGESTEDFIREARMS: Vary widely with game hunted but here are some thoughts:
PLAINS GAME,– If using a gun- we generally recommend the use of a bolt action with a high quality variable scope (forget the cheap scopes-spend $300 or more and stick to Leupold, Redfield and the higher priced imports like Swarovski, Zeiss and Leica). Mount a scope on good mounts-I do not like the see thru mounts-they put your head up too high for fast positioning. I suggest something like generally semi- auto rifles and shotguns are prohibited! A 2X7 or 3X9 scope sight for calibers such as the .270, 30-06; .280; 7MM Mag; 300 Mag or similar. The 30-06, 7MM Mags, 300 Magnums; and anything larger if you shoot it well are great, but all the named calibers are fine. We have done extremely well with the any of the 7 Mags, and with all the 30 caliber mags. Even the venerable 30-06 will do a very adequate job, but watch your shot placement.
ONE IMPORTANT THING- ALMOST ALL AFRICAN GAME CARRIES ITS’ VITALS FURTHER FORWARD THAN MOST AMERICAN GAME!! DO NOT SHOOT ONE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BODY- YOU WILL LIKELY LOSE IT! REMEMBER- IN AFRICA- WOUND IT- YOU BOUGHT IT!!
There are books you can buy showing shot placement on African game. Spend the $0 or $50 bucks- it’s cheaper then wasting a $500 trophy fee on a lost animal! So shoot carefully and use enough gun! Use a good stout bullet that will penetrate deeply and hopefully leave an exit wound. Use any good premium bullets like Nosler partitions, Swift A Frames (personal favorites), Trophy Bonded Bear Claw or similar. Be careful with Barnes X- they penetrate and keep going- can force you to buy a second animal if you wound it!
DANGEROUS GAME:
If you are hunting dangerous game such as CAPE BUFFALO or LION– then our favorite is the.375 Magnum. There are several of them now. Butch sticks with the old .375 H&H- mainly because ammo is easily found. The short Ruger .375 is a super cartridge- but lose your ammo and you might be stuck! The 416 Rigby is good, 416 Remington too. These 416’s are fine for elephant too—as are the larger calibers, but many hunters do not shoot them as well as they shoot the .375 Mag-and the .375 is really quite flat shooting- so it can do for plains game also! For dangerous game I would sight in at most with a one hundred yard zero; shots can be from 30 to 200 yards. For any game, and certainly for all dangerous game, try and hold your shots to 150 yards or less.
READ A BOOK SHOWING SHOT PLACEMENT BEFORE YOU LEAVE THE U.S.!!
Try for only broad side shots and shoot to take out the lungs and the off side shoulder if possible. Remember vitals are between the legs!! For soft-skinned game like antelope and even leopard, you should zero no more than 1” high at 100 yards with the suggested calibers, and you should be able to hold dead on out to 225 yards. If you have questions- call us on this issue. A quality metal gun case or one of the very heavy indestructible thermo plastics– like the Browning Travel Vaults (Butch’s personal favorite) with solid locks is a must. There are a few new molded plastic cases which seem like they would do- but forget those flat flexible plastic things for under $100 bucks- unless you want to be gunless!! Get a 2 gun case- fill it with extra clothes, socks etc. Butch likes to take out one of the foam inserts, and replace it with a soft gun case that he he can use in vehicles and planes while leaving the cumbersome travel case in camp! A portable cleaning kit is also a grand idea for muzzle obstructions. A little oil too.
SCOPE SIGHTS: If you want a scope for dangerous game -1X4 or a 1.5 X 5 or 2X7 is OK. We do NOT like 3X9 for dangerous game!! Remember, with any dangerous game, in case of a charge, your final shot may be at 10 to 20 feet- you need to be able to find that critter fast with your scope!! That 1.5 power can do that well!!
SHOT PLACEMENT: There are some good books on shot placement- complete with diagrams. BUT-in general- African game carries lungs and vitals far forward- and I think a shoulder shot placed about 3” forward of the shoulder crease– will work best with the right bullet/rifle. Or angle the shot in- especially for an archer. If in doubt- shoot right at the shoulder – but maybe 6 inches below the point of the shoulder- and also ask your PH –BEFOREHAND!!!!
BOWS AND ARROWS: It is beyond our scope to deal adequately with this complex subject, so call us, as most of us are archers also! In general, we do not like ultra short bows, except maybe for tree stands over waterholes. You most often will be shooting from a seated or kneeling position in a BELOW GROUND blind, so make sure the bow is not too long for that- and bear in mind you will have to have clearance over the top of the bow as well!! For plains game, in general, use the same tackle you would use for elk- you will be in the ball park!! Right thru the fleshy part of the shoulder is best-just learn where the bones are! As always on arrows, bows and heads–don’t skimp and buy junk- you are spending a lot of money to go hunting, not drive around for 3 days to try and hopefully get tackle repaired. Learn how to do simple bow repairs, like restringing or repairing servings. Bring an extra sight, and an extra rest! Expect shots to average 20 to 40 yards, and being good at 50 is a big bonus. BUT, good means good- not “I think I can”! Wound it- you just bought it!!
EAR PLUGS: Protect your hearing when shooting!! And you know that hunters get tired and snore! Earplugs insure a good night’s sleep and also protect your ears when checking your scope on arrival. Butch permanently keeps several sets in his shaving kit. Good for sighting in too! One caution- we have had two instances of hunters not hearing what the PH whispered- due to the ear plugs. Put them in only at last second! One hunter shot a cow buffalo; the other shot the wrong kudu- disasters!
ELECTRICAL: Bring a universal adapter (Radio Shack; Sharper Image etc.) Most use 220volts with a 3 prong electrical plug. It is not like our own 3 prong adapters!
A CAMERA- with extra battery and plenty of film- do not plan on buying it where you are going. I like a compact 35mm with the most telephoto I can find and the ability to set it down and walk over to the trophy and have it shoot on a timer automatically. I also suggest a video cam- compact 8MM or Hi 8 or the new mini-DVD’s are good. The new digital is interesting since you can freeze-frame and print off a picture. Video of live animals always gets lots of comments from friends. Be sure to have optics and cameras put on your Customs form 4457 before you ever leave the US!!
BIPOD OR SHOOTING STICKS. Most shots in Africa will be standing and off of sticks. Believe us- it is not an easy position!! Try it before you leave- -even 3 dowels will work- but learn how you feel best- no time to learn when shooting the kudu of a lifetime! You will have adrenaline coursing, heart pumping, you will be nervous- and you will sway and wobble! BEST HINT- NEVER JUST YANK ONE OFF- EITHER PASS OR WAIT UNTIL EVERYTHING IS PERFECT FOR A CAREFUL SHOT!
Butch always practices with a tripod from the standing position- you can make them or buy a set from Stoney Point (Cabela’s, Bass Pro etc sell them). Butch often will take a bipod for sitting or for prone shots- sometimes you belly up and need the rest! PRACTICE THIS!! Pack them in your rifle case- wrapped in a t-shirt to avoid scratching your gun!
OPTICS: We suggest a quality binocular in 8 to 12 power. I like 10X40 myself. I like Zeiss; Steiner (great buys); Swarovski; Leupold and similar. However, with the bigger glasses- be weight conscious. Avoid excessively large objective lenses (50MM and bigger). I prefer 40MM.You may want to get a harness which takes the weight off your neck- bino-buddy is one I like. I have never taken a spotting scope to Africa- nice- but just more weight to carry around!
A RIFLE SLING– WE LIKE THE NON-SLIP NEOPRENE SLINGS A LOT. Or sew a button on top of each shoulder to prevent slippage.
A SURVIVAL PACK. This is overkill frankly! Generally you are not far from a safari vehicle. So what follows is a suggestion only. I generally do not carry one. But leaving it in the truck might help in an emergency. Set it up as you like but I suggest:
CLOTHING- Most Safari companies will automatically wash your clothing daily- so basically two clothing changes are about all you need!!! Wear one while they wash the other set!
Pants/Shirts– Two sets, 3 at most. I like cotton for Africa – you can use your camo—or buy the typical safari gear (I prefer the solid olive greens. I avoid the lighter color tans which I feel show up too brightly- but look cool!) . Check with us about camo- most places such as South Africa & Namibia think it is fine-(but never wear military surplus!). Lightweight early season camo is what you want- it can be hot! But it can be cold in early mornings so address that! Some people like to wear a pair of camo-colored jeans- but jeans make lots of noise on brush- cotton is better! In most cases your regular warm weather camo clothing works just fine!
Coats– I take one of two types of jackets- my first choice is a light gortex camo suede parka which I can layer underneath – with sweaters or sweatshirts. The second choice is the typical so called Safari Jacket- usually in Cotton, preferably light green. Make sure the coats have a soft outside material that will not make rustling and rubbing noises when you walk or crawl. Almost quiet is not good enough! I like the suede type fabrics or the new MT 050 fabric of Cabela’s. Fleece coats eat and hold too many burrs for my taste as an outer garment. FOR LEOPARD IN BLINDS- BLACK POLAR FLEECE, QUIET PANTS TOO! CHILLY IIN BLINDS!
HATS: A good hat to keep the sun off back of neck and ears and off your face. Actually a flats fishing type hat works well- Butch often uses a vented baseball style cap with a built in face mask that he flips over the back of his neck to avoid the sum. Again- keep colors muted. No safari helmets please!!
SWEATER: I like the wind stopper wool zip or button open style that lets it breathe. I like it in camo, or dark green. If you can’t open it up to vent it will wear you out with excess heat and energy drain. An alternative is a camo sweat shirt with foam or fleece lining, to use as either an outer or under garment. It gives me much flexibility in clothing selection for a day, or a night in a leopard blind!
MISCELLANEOUS:
Moleskin for blisters with an antiseptic ointment; Insect repellent or a face mask or both; Extra boot laces;
MONEY/TRAVELERS CHECKS for tips, shopping, unexpected equipment failures, excess luggage charges for transport of trophies etc.; US money is widely accepted for tips, purchases etc.. Never flash your cash though- poverty breeds crime.
Two or three plastic hefty garbage bags for lining duffels to protect against blood leakage or water damage and for myriad other uses- laundry etc.
SLIPPERS FOR NIGHT BATHROOM CALLS
AN ANTI-DIARRHEAL
LIP BALM AND SUN SCREEN
BRING ALONG A GREAT SENSE OF HUMOR- THIS IS NOT HOME!! THINGS HAPPEN-BE PATIENT!
BUT– If The Outfitter/Ph Is Not Doing Right By You- Then Brace Him And Make Him Fix It, If He Can. Better You Do That— Than Stay Unhappy And Keep your Mouth Shut – Thereby Guaranteeing A Poor Hunt!
From Long Experience—Waiting Until You Get Home Is A Recipe For Too Little-Too Late! Outfitters Will Ask Us Here—- Why Didn’t He Tell Me So I Could Have Fixed It? Any Decent Outfitter Should Be Given The Chance To Make It Right- And Most Will!! You Are Their Paying Guest!! Be Tactful- Even Call Us If Necessary! We Try Hard To Find Quality Outfitters, But Things Can Go Awry- SO SPEAK UP FIRMLY BUT POLITEL…… (Eg:” Can You Come Sit Over Here So We Can Get Together And Try And Solve A Problem I Am Having?”—NOT-“LISTEN YOU STUPID SOB!”)
GET IN SHAPE– hike; bike; swim whatever. Work lungs and legs- backs too! Just do it!
PRACTICE off hand snap shots; practice standing off of sticks- a primary mode in Africa; practice kneeling and sitting and prone- shoot some- than shoot some more. I promise it will pay off! And get away from that g. d. shooting bench- i never saw one in the wild! Practice with your shooting sticks; and your bi-pod and use your pack for a rest!
I am sure that no matter how many times I make out this list and review it, I will omit one thing you would have liked. So please–use your own common sense as well as relying on my list.
And Most Importantly- Remember You Are Going To Go And Have Fun- And With Any Luck At All You Will Also Have A Great Hunt!!!
CLOTHING/APPAREL
OPTICS/ELECTRONICS
EQUIPMENT
MISCELLANEOUS
TOILETRIES/FIRST AID
OPTIONAL
DOCUMENTS
Hunting Gearlist
Much of the hunting for bear, moose, and caribou takes hunters into low, rolling, mountainous regions with heavy brush and timber at the lower elevations. Rainy or snowy weather is common. Valley areas often have lakes, rivers, stream or swamps. Hunters need more specialized clothing. Snow and cold are possible any month of the year.
A typical day on a hunt is to walk or ride out of a spike camp into a higher piece of ground and then sit and watch for game, sometimes for hours, so layered clothing is important. Dress lighter when moving and carry a daypack with heavier clothing to keep you warm and comfortable while you are sitting and glassing for game. But be prepared for a sudden brisk hike when your quarry is sighted. Go light, but be prepared for any occasion.
Our gear suggestions include the following:
Daypack – Your daypack should have approximately 2,000 square inches of capacity. Roughly enough to stuff your coat, lunch, and survival kit into. A few extra pockets on the outside are handy for flashlights, extra batteries, maps, etc. The best packs are the top-load models, without zippers on the sides. Zippers often break, making the pack useless. Nylon is the toughest and lightest, although some fleece models work well also. Fleece tends to pick up burrs and brush. Pick what is right for your area.
Boots – Sore feet have ruined more mountainous hunts than any other single problem. If you are going to be based out of a spike camp where you can take two pairs of boots, take them. Wear a different pair of boots each day, allowing the boots to dry out for a day. While Gore-Tex-style boots work well for a few days, perspiration from your feet will eventually dampen the interior of the boot enough that it will begin to feel clammy and your feet will get cold. If your boot has a changeable liner, take extra liners and rotate them every day, drying the used pair daily. If you expect real cold, the Sorel-type boot with a heavy felt lining is your salvation. This flexibility makes it easier to control the climate in your boot, and happy feet are tough feet. Moleskin, available at all drug stores, is the answer in case of chafing or blistering.
Canteen – In drier weather, it is important to have about two quarts of water with you. In cooler weather, one quart will do. Wide mouths are best.
Hip Boots – Hip boots are a necessary evil. Because of the wet, marshy areas and high brush, hip boots are the best choice for the hunter. Since considerable walking may be necessary, specialized ankle-fit boots are best. These boots are designed a little snugger around the ankle and it makes it a lot easier to walk. Buy the boots about a half size larger and put in a polypropylene inner sole to give you a little more protection from rock bruising and additional warmth.
Rain Suits – Hunters should take rubberized rain suits on all hunts. Generally, if it rains, it really rains-often pushed along by strong winds. Since the areas can be brushy, hunters are often pushing their way through brushy regions, and there is nothing worse than wet brush! A regular rubberized suit is best for this type of hunt. A full-length jacket with a zipper or button front to provide ventilation is essential. Buy at least one size larger to accommodate layered clothing. Take rain pants, too, for maximum protection.
Gloves – Due to the inclement conditions, Gore-Tex mitts or gloves are probably the best bet for the hunter. Take three or four pairs. Also take a pair of leather mittens with fleece liners and a pair of insulated finger gloves.
Hats – A water resistant and insulated hat with warm ear flaps and visor to keep water off of your glasses. Wind is often a problem. You may be sitting for hours glassing for game. Use the hood on your rain jacket to keep water from running down your neck.
Sitting Pad – Since you will be sitting for hours, often on damp ground, it is pretty handy to have some type of pad to sit on. A small, waterproof insulating pad is a good bet. It will keep a Jacket-Midweight wool, with new miracle fleece-type fabric is generally best.
Vest – A synthetic fill vest with a collar is a small item that can save your day.
Underwear – The best underwear is a synthetic fiber. The lighter weight underwear is generally adequate on these hunts. We suggest the zip-down turtleneck. You can control the warmth of the garment and provide better venting. It is a great idea to take two pairs of long underwear.
Socks – Three pairs of heavy socks and three pairs of lightweight socks, preferably designed for anti-blistering. The socks can be washed and dried daily.
Sleeping Bags – Because of the varied, often unexpected, conditions a hunter can experience while hunting mountainous terrain, it is often better to take two lightweight sleeping bags. I prefer synthetic bags. Place one bag inside the other. The inside bag should be the mummy type, a more compact model. The outside bag can be a rectangular one that offers a little more room. Since you have two bags, you can leave the outside bag open if you encounter warmer weather. Should it get cold, zip both bags up and you can brave subzero temperatures. Since sleeping bags are bulky, hunters should obtain a compression stuff sack to help bind the bags into a smaller parcel for easier transportation.
Sleeping Pad – If space permits, a full-length pad, two inches thick, goes well under old bones. Outfitters often supply pads.
Pants – A lightweight wool or fleece model is ideal. Try to find pants with extra pockets in the legs (cargo pockets). You never have enough pockets for handkerchiefs, flashlights, etc. Take two pairs. Clothes that fit a bit loose are a good idea.
Shirts -Three lightweight shirts with long sleeves. Wool is generally best.
Hunting Gearlist
What follows is a general guideline, and each hunter should adapt it to fit his own needs. No list will ever be all encompassing, so please think about your needs.
DOCUMENTATION:
How to pay the Reciprocity Rate?
US citizens pay $160. You then have 10 years’ worth of permission for multiple entries into Argentina
SAVE THE FORMS!
Passengers arriving in Argentina without being able to show the fee was pre-paid will NOT be able to enter Argentina and will have to return home!!
RIFLES:
HARD GOODS:
HUNTING PACK: Normally you do two red stag hunts a day, morning from about 7AM to around 10 or 11AM (don’t worry that is plenty of time and stags quiet down by then making them tough to locate.); and then again from around 3:30 to 8 PM. So don’t take a big pack with you-not needed. I do suggest the following be place in a SMALL QUIET fanny or back pack:
A FANNY PACK (adequate for Argentina- provided it has straps so you can attach your rolled up jacket!) or back pack of quiet and waterproof material such as suede or fleece or wool to carry all of the above. You don’t need much here- even the knife is not needed as guide will have one. If you get a full backpack–get one with a quality padded hip belt that puts the weight on your hips. I have several big ones that I use as my carry-on piece of luggage. Then I reload into my fanny pack for the hunt. All my optical, survival and camera goods, shaving kit; plus a change of underwear and socks– goes in there when I am traveling. It is never out of my sight!
HARD METAL OR QUALITY HARD PLASTIC GUN CASE FOR AIRLINE TRAVEL WITH
LOCKS. I recently went to a Browning travel Vault- hard plastic-nearly indestructible- but it is heavy. But I do like it- it has wheels. I can pack lots of extra stuff in it too. I remove one of the two foam pads, then put my gun in a padded soft case inside the hard case and pack knives etc. in there. NO BULLETS IN THE GUN CASE– they go in your duffel.
CLOTHING: In general on Red Stag hunts in March and April expect early temperatures to be cool- perhaps 35-45 -so a light jacket or sweater in the AM. Afternoons can be 70 to 90 degrees. NOTE: They can do a wash for you normally-so ask on arrival.
DUFFEL BAGS: With new luggage restrictions I actually go the store with a scale- tough to find anything with wheels for under 7 pounds! LL Bean has a few. Again- buy good stuff-I have seen a duffel explode when a heavy bag is thrown on top of it by luggage carriers.
SLEEPING BAG– NONE. Bedding supplied. Maid service too. Laundry often can be arranged on request.
MISCELLANEOUS:
Moleskin for blisters with an antiseptic ointment;
Extra boot laces;
Slippers for night bathroom calls or for the shower;
An anti-diarrheal and maybe some Ex-Lax;
Aleve or aspirin;
Lip balm
Bathroom items- They do supply towels, soap etc. Each room sleeps two guys with your own bath and shower.
BRING ALONG A GREAT SENSE OF HUMOR- THIS IS NOT HOME!! THINGS HAPPEN-BE PATIENT!
BUT if the outfitter is not doing right by you- then face them and make them fix it, if they can. better that than staying unhappy and keeping your mouth shut and guaranteeing a poor hunt! We try hard to find quality outfitters, but things can go awry- so speak up firmly but nicely. They want you happy!!
If need be email or call us before leaving!! And if the scheduling does not suit you- discuss it with them-these folks are Some of the most willing people you will ever meet. You will really enjoy them-this is one awesome hunt! But it is rare to have any issues on our argentine hunts!
Get in reasonable shape– hike; bike; swim whatever. Just do it! Expect to walk 1 to 2 miles in the morning-same in the afternoon. If it gets to be too much-ask to be in a blind over a waterhole-and then bring your video- I saw over 300 animals one hot afternoon. I think blinds are best in late day. Low exertion overall!! I call it a 3 to 4 on a scale of 10.
Practice off hand snap shots; practice kneeling and sitting and practice shooting off the shooting sticks in the standing position!! If you wound an animal- you will have to pay for it—so practice and then practice some more!! I promise it will pay off!
Archers: practice and practice. We have had a number archers go down on this hunt, and i have taken stag myself with bow there. It appears best results are from blinds set up in travel corridors or around water holes. They will even build you a blind. You should try the spot and stalk-fun but tough to get close enough-just like elk hunting. In fact bring elk type equipment.
I am sure that no matter how many times I make out this list and review it, I will omit one thing you would have liked. So use your own common sense as well as relying on my list. And feel free to make suggestions- we want everyone as well prepared as possible.
FINAL THOUGHTS: We can arrange all kinds of sightseeing, tango shows, cruises, shopping tours, museums etc in Buenos Aires-just ask. Allow a couple days on the front end of your trip-you will find it worthwhile. We also suggest some superb 5 star hotels and restaurants. Argentine wine and beef is the best! There are superb bargains on leather type goods in BA- custom made leather jackets can be under $150! Shoes, soft boots, leather cases-all are bargains!
RECEIVE WEEKLY DISCOUNTED AND CANCELLATION SPECIALS
